Paris, France (Grandmother's words)

Paula and Chester sitting outside Shakespeare Books

Paris, France
Paula Walden

We have been to Paris ten times in all seasons and can testify that it is captivating in any season but the best times have been the first time and the last time. The first time in Paris is like a dream. It is the most beautiful city in the world. The French are obsessed with good food. The language is beautiful, though they take double the words to say something. The weather is always mild except July when it is scorching. But then in July you can go to the beach. "The beach" you say! Paris is inland. Yes but only the French would build a beach on the River Seine.

Paula checking the map for directions

Lianna and Gido

The last time we were in Paris was this past May, and it was the best time because our family was there. After not seeing them for 10 months we could hardly contain our excitement waiting for them to arrive from Barcelona just 40 minutes after our arrival at Charles de Gaulle Airport. The kids looked so big and so grown up and both Lianna and Mark looked exceptionally relaxed. Our exchangers in Paris had arranged for a car to meet us which was so fortunate as I had scoured the internet looking for the fastest and cheapest way into Paris. Within a short time we were at the apartment and it was perfect. Large enough for us all, very artsy and just the kind of place Lianna and Mark love. In addition, we were located within walking distance to the centre of Paris. After a rest we walked to see the Ballet at the Palais Garnier. Though the ballet was a bit disappointing the venue certainly was worth it. Opera Garnier is magnificent structure ornately decorated.

Paris

Having been in Paris many times, and several times for a month, we knew our way about, so going places was easy. Most times we walked but our old legs sometimes needed a ride on the Metro. It is a clean and efficient system that crisscrosses the city. You can move from one side to the other in probably 30 minutes. We suggested that we visit our favorite neighborhoods rather than the galleries and museums the week we were there, as we had been to most of them several times. We basically just enjoy hanging around in Paris, eating in a Brasserie and pretending we are Parisien. Having 4 people along who spoke French was an added advantage.

Caleb outside

Mark with distant shot of the Eiffel Tower

The first thing the next day we did was go to the closest street, food market which brings in the best of local produce. Blocks and blocks of purveyors of local products, bread, vegetables, meat, cheese, wine, and fruit. We just couldn't restrain ourselves and bought a huge feast for lunch.

Caleb in streets of Paris

Paris

Just wandering around we got to experience the wonder of the rich architecture in the city. The city has many Gothic churches as well as churches and squares dating from the Renaissance. During Napoleon's time the city of Paris was modernized and industrialized. Empire fashion bloomed. During the Belle Époque decades Impressionist art and Art Nouveau flourished. And Paris grew from small villages into a huge city. The history of France is rich with culture and change. And you can see it all in Paris.

Beautiful art work everywhere

We also went to La Defense , a huge modernist business centre on the edge of Paris. Spectacular setting where you can stand under the immense Grande Arche and looks down the Avenue a couple of miles to the Arche de Triumph. We did it all, We saw Montmartre, the Seine, the Latin Quarter, Place de Concorde, the Marais, Ile de la Cite, Notre Dame, Place de Vosges, Place de Bastille, Pompidou Centre, Tuilleries, Invalides, Arche De Triomphe, the Left Bank ( where Mark revisited the English Bookstore, Shakespeare Books) and of course the Eiffel Tower.

Miro Statues at La Defense

Arc at La Defense

Thumb statue at La Defense

Taking a picture in a strange mirror

Eiffel Tower Pose

Artemis in front of Roman pillars

Grandma pointing out sites as we go around

Arc de Triumph

We could have stayed another 3 weeks but it was time to go home. We'll never forget our wonderful time with Lianna, Caleb, Artemis and Mark. They made Paris come alive as the kids in particular was captivated by their visit to this beautiful city.

Statue coming out of the wall in Monmartre

A week later we are coming back at 10 pm from playing bridge and cannot believe that in Vancouver we can't just stop at a corner Brasseries for a full dinner at 11pm. How uncivilized. But we did find an authentic French Bakery on Davie and Bute!

Very happy to be your tour guide in Paris.

Paula

Paris, France (May 18 - June 2)

By Artemis Walden
Paris

Ever since I saw “Ashley and Mary-Kate go too Paris” I wanted to go too.

We pull up too are apartment we will be staying in for the next two weeks. There are a pair of big wooden doors, we punch the password in and one of the doors unlocks. We walk into the little courtyard. The sounds of traffic fade out behind us. We all go up the steps to our little apartment and Sam ( the woman’s place we’re staying in) is waiting for us there. Sam shows us around the artsy and quite large apartment. To my surprise there’s a bunny in one of the bedrooms. Sam says she’s going to take it to her son, but I can pick it up until she leaves. Also in the same room there’s a doll house fully decorated “I’m going to have fun with this” I think to myself getting excited to change the little rooms around. I love the apartment, it’s so artistic and retro, but at the same time very cosy.

In our Paris apartment with my grandmother and mom

We all wave goodbye too Sam and thank her for letting us stay in her apartment.
Its around two in the afternoon and we’re feeling pretty tired from the flight. We hang at the apartment and rest for about two hours and before we know it it’s 4:00. When we finally get out the door all I can think to myself is “ I’m in Paris! PARIS!!!!!”

Baba and Gido came to see us for the first week in Paris

With Baba

Walking the streets of Paris

Can you see us all at the bottom of the Arc

How long have we been walking? It seems like a long time and I can feel it in my feet, which are aching. Heading to the Eiffel Tower with my eyes scanning the streets for a Patisserie. As we walk across the street I can see the Eifel Tower. It’s not that far away. We’ve been in Paris for 3 days and we’re finally going too the Eifel Tower. I see a Patisserie across the street and quickly run over too it, with dad right behind me. As we walk inside a delicious smell of fresh made Baguette comes too our noses. I look at the selection of pastries. There it is. Exactly what I’m looking for. A pure chocolate tart with a little raspberry on top. “Dad? I’m gonna get this one.” After dad picks out a few more chocolate pastries the girl puts them all in a cute box with a bow. Our plan is too eat pastries lying on the grass in front of the Eifel Tower. I can hardly wait!

Just bought the box of pastries

When we reach the nice grassy field we choose a perfect spot that’s half in the sun (for Baba.Gido,Caleb and mom) and half in the shade (me and dad). It’s a beautiful day outside. My mouth is salivating as we open the box of pastries and all take one. Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm the chocolate tart is exactly what I wanted. Mixed with the sweet/sour taste of a raspberry it’s heaven! I feel so French sitting in front of the Eifel Tower eating pastries. When we all finish are little treats, mom and dad go too see how long the line’s are too go up the Eifel Tower while the rest of us stay on the grass and rest.

Sitting on the grass

Here I am pastry and everything

After lying on the grass for a while we decide to leave and come back too the Eiffel Tower another day when Baba and Gido aren’t there (because they’ve already been up and we didn’t feel like waiting in line for 4 hours). After some contemplation we decide that Caleb will go back to the apartment ( because he was tired), mom and dad will go walk around, and me Baba and Gido will go shopping.

Caleb heading back to the apartment with the bagette

Oh my god! This dress looks so cute I could die! It’s a baby-doll dress that’s really puffy but has only two layers. It’s because its pleated and folded so much that it puffs right out and looks adorable! Too bad its 470 Euros. And with the Canadian dollar so low it’s about 700$. It’s just not fair! Ahh well I have too get a different dress. Throughout the rest off the day I find two more cute dresses, but its just so expensive here in Paris. I tried on a dress in Zara and decide too go too the Zara in Montreal too get the dress, so it will be in Canadian currency and it will be cheaper. So much for shopping in Paris=)

By: Artemis Walden
Another famous trick shot

PHOTO WINNERS

All of the photos we took received a vote from someone, however a few of them stood out more than others.

Winners:
TREE 2 - Caleb
BENCH 5 - Lianna

Check back to PHOTO CONTEST: Barcelona, Spain to see winning shots!

Lianna

Northern Spain (May 12-May 19)

Artemis influenced by Dali

NORTHERN SPAIN
Lianna

Our first stop on our Northern Spain roadtrip was at Figares where Dali had created the Museo Theatro Dali. The museum was out of this world. Dali was for us a genius. He created in an uninhibited free crazy way that we all loved. Amongst his sculptures and paintings and other works there were also a number of pieces of jewelry. One in particular made as a gold heart of about 3 inches square with a centre filled with red rubies that were beating like a real heart. This just blew us away.

Jewelry designed and made by Dali (the heart picture didn't turn out, this is another amazingly interesting piece)


Dali Teatro Museo in Figares - One of the many large pieces displayed (Mark and Artemis at the very bottom of the photo)

Mark had read that there was a very lovely town on the coast from Figares called Cadaques, where Dali had also spent many years.As we headed to Cadaques through the countryside we noticed young ladies sitting on the side of the road in lawn chairs. We soon understood that they were prostitutes waiting for customers from the passing vehicles. What a bizarre concept.

As we approached Cadaques from a windy steep mountain road we could see the tiny village on the edge of the shore. A quintessential Mediterranean village of white washed homes snuggled in a bay. It was magical.

Walking around streets of Cadaques

Cadaques is also littered with Dali. He built a fantastic home just outside the village, which is now a museum, and his influence in the village can be felt to this day.

Bay outside of Dalis house a short walk from Cadaques

Dalis house - poolside sitting area

Dalis house - around the pool area

Our hotel snuggled in the little town was run by a fierce fan of Dali. Our room was the Dali Suite, the lobby was full of every book written by or about Dali, and let me tell you there are many. Unusual statues adorned the lobby and photographs of Dali were exhibited on the walls as well as original works. A small gorgeous bust of Dali, actually 5 of them , were displayed behind the front desk and as soon as I saw it I knew I wanted it. Then I found out they were selling for 300 Euros! ($480 CDN). “It’s bronze, a limited edition” said the pompous unfriendly front desk manager. He was a character and although not the type you usually find in the service industry, he fit in perfectly with the eccentricity of the place.

Dalis house - Egg overlooking the lovely bay

Two nights in Cadaques and off we went. Again I had read about a lovely Mideival town called Ainsa in the Pyrannees that was a MUST. So I circled it on the map and tried to figure some kind of route from where we were. That night we were sidetracked by the lovely country roads. I read in the guide that there were “Casa Rural”, (Country Inns) everywhere in Northern Spain. Just watch out for the signs. We took one gravel road that lead us to this fabulous place on the hill over looking the valley but noone was around so we continued on our search. After a number of hours driving through beautiful countryside and many inquries about directions we found another place, Casa Angrille.

The owner was comfortably sitting in the front of the villa smoking his cigar, not expecting any visitors. But here we were. He didn’t speak any English and we were not quite sure the details of the arrangements we pieced together however he and his wife quickly straightened out the rooms, prepared a delicious evening meal and we settled into this gorgeous stone villa in the middle of the most lovely scenic valley. The kids were tired and wanted to explore near to the villa (there were baby goats and a friendly dog) and play table tennis. Mark and I went off for a short walk through the picturesque valley. We literally saw the cows come home.

Casa Anguille

We all slept like logs that night in the peaceful abode.

At this point we were still far from Ainsa but not to worry we would see what was along the way. The owners son at the Casa Angrille was present at breakfast and speaking English he gave us some ideas of where to head next. Unbeknownst to us we were only 50 km away from another country – Andorra. A very small tax free country between Spain and France, how convenient. So we were compelled to see it as he said the scenery was incredible. From low rolling hills to magestic pointed peaks we arrived in Andorra, a strange place set in a steep valley built up with shopping centres, restaurants and hotels. We arrived around 2 pm, which is the worse time in Spain as everything is closed all afternoon. Places open up again around 5 and then run into the night but afternoon is for sleeping and relaxing. Besides the beauty of the canyon Andorra was set in, I personally did not like the look of the fabricated town and since everything was shut down we headed back to Spain.

Scenery heading into Andora

Mideival village - one of the many on our drive around Northern Spain

From there we drove and drove. Every 20 km or so the whole landscape would change and what gorgeous landscape it was. We made our way from village to village searching for the most perfect spot to rest for the night. In one small village we inquired from a elderly chap about a “Casa Rural” anywhere in the area. He didn’t speak a word of English but when we said “how about that place?” (a name of a town written on a sign near where we were stopped) he seemed enthused that it would lead us somewhere. So off we went on this narrow road in the mountains. It wound its way up up up the hillside, over the entire pass to the top of the mountain and over again. We arrived at the town to find nothing but a few old buildings but the vista was incredible. The towering Pyranees before us, the rolling hills all around.

That night we did finally end up in Ainsa because of Mark’s manic driving, a beautiful Mideival town high on a hill. Our rooms were breathtaking with a canopy king bed, gorgeous furniture and a VIEW to die for off our large balcony windows.

Square in Ainsa

View from Mideival village of Ainsa


The next day HIKING. This was probably one of the most beautiful hikes I have been on. Over 5 hours we hiked up the nearby hill to the top, along the ridge, over the otherside to a gorgeous river (where we bathed) and back through poppy fields and a quiet coutry lane to the town.

Hiking outside of Ainsa

Hiking outside of Ainsa

Hiking outside of Ainsa


Not getting up until late the next day we did not want to travel far to the next destination. Only about 40km further into the mountains we ended up in a little town called Fiscal. The kids were wanting to find a place with small kittens or a puppy. And so we happened upon a great little Inn where the owner had a 3 month old pup they played with for hours, where the rooms once again had gorgeous vistas of the mountains and the owner ended up chatting with us into the night and then later with Mark over more glasses of wine.

Walking around villages near Fiscal

Scenery around Fiscal in the Pyranees



Caleb enjoying the 3 month old puppy outside the Inn

Having lunch outside the in at Fiscal


View from our room in Fiscal

One more night before our flight to Paris took us to the coast where we happened upon a large sign “CAMPING”. Mark had been going on about the camping places in France that we had to investigate, information he received from old neighbors of ours Sean and Cynthia. So we stopped to check it out. The kids were bowled over. Massive swimming pool, tennis, table tennis, games room, ampitheatre, restaurants, stores, beachfront… Caleb wanted to do everything that night and NOW. The accommodations were a trailor made for 4 tiny people. We took it. It was already 6:30 and we had to have dinner yet and the pool closed at 7pm so we got busy. After swimming, eating, games room, walking on the beach, then table tennis on the lit courts it was midnight and we had got our money’s worth.

Next morning up early 6am to get to the Barcelona airport and hop on our next plane heading to PARIS!!!!

Lianna

Barcelona, Spain (April 29 - May 12)

Barcelona seen through a window from Gaudis Sangrada Familia

Barcelona
Lianna

Venice to Barcelona. Only 1 ½ hours away by plane, we took Ryan Air which I strongly suggest not taking (lots of hidden costs raising your very low priced ticket to a very high priced ticket), we are suddenly in a completely different city and country.

Our arrival into Barcelona was at midnight, another Ryan Air bonus, so we had pre-booked a hotel through the Ryan Air website, need I say more. The taxi driver dropped us at the bottom of an empty alley indicating that the hotel was at the other end. What choice did we have? The hotel was small, the rooms very small, the kids did not even have a space to put their bags as the two single beds took up all the space, however we were tired so we crashed and decided to deal with it in the morning.

The next morning after leaving the hotel and exploring for a bit we realized that we were in a fantastic area. All the shops, restaurants, nightlife, main attractions were nearby. The hotel was located about 10 minutes walk to La Ramba and Plaza Catalunya, main city and tourist locations. Mark and I had a fun night the next evening exploring through the narrow streets of restaurants and bars in the Gothic area of town where people are out until all hours and there are so many places open, just opening in the wee hours, you can barely decide where to land. We ended up trying out two different spots, both buzzing with nighlife.

Statue Man sitting on the famous La Rambla in Barcelona

Statue Man in the Old Gothic part of town

Gorgeous artwork you find all over Barcelona

We had tracked down an apartment between the two nights in the tiny hotel and on that Monday morning we moved, a little father away from the main city area, Plaza Espanya but in a great place near the Olympic Park where there are all sorts of facilities and running tracks spread out on a large green space overlooking the city.

We settled into this lovely apartment of 3 bedrooms for the next 11 days.

Apartment Elevator

Ow Mark hurt his foot again

A city under oppression of the leadershop of Franko for many years, Barcelona has re-surfaced over the past 20 years. It is a growing and exciting metropolis with an edgy raw feeling. For us Barcelona was the discovery of Gaudi and the Modernistas of the time. Our first tour around the city on the hop on hop off double decker tour bus (we did this on a very hot sunny day and actually we didn’t get off until we had spent at least 3 hours touring around the entire city area gave us a very good layout of the distinct sections of the city.

Sitting on the Hop on Hop off tour bus

During our stay we did the Familia Grada tour (Gaudis Church masterpiece still under construction) a Modernista tour, a Picasso tour, went on an extensive bike ride along the gorgeous coast and all over the city and we walked walked walked from one Gaudi exhibit to another.

Gaudis Sagrada Familia front entrance

Shot from the stairway of the Sagrada Familia

Spires being built at the Sagrada Familia

Gaudi Park

Bike riding along the boulevard to the Arch

Yes Barcelona has an Arch de Triumph as well

Biking on the beachside

Caleb bought a soccer ball, encouraged by all the soccer going on during the finals in Spain, which we took up to the Olympic site a number of times to kick around. Both kids were starting to get weary of sight seeing and often wanted to just hang out at a park or stay in and chill out.

We were also in a delimma of where to go next, what to do for our final month of travels. Mark and I had discussed going to southern Spain, to Portugal, maybe to Morroco. But the idea of touring around more cities was even exhausting to me. So before heading to Paris to meet up with my parents we rented a car and decided to slowly explore around Northern Spain starting with an introduction to Dali. As for where we would go for our last month in June, something would come to us eventually.

Lianna