Northern Spain (May 12-May 19)

Artemis influenced by Dali

NORTHERN SPAIN
Lianna

Our first stop on our Northern Spain roadtrip was at Figares where Dali had created the Museo Theatro Dali. The museum was out of this world. Dali was for us a genius. He created in an uninhibited free crazy way that we all loved. Amongst his sculptures and paintings and other works there were also a number of pieces of jewelry. One in particular made as a gold heart of about 3 inches square with a centre filled with red rubies that were beating like a real heart. This just blew us away.

Jewelry designed and made by Dali (the heart picture didn't turn out, this is another amazingly interesting piece)


Dali Teatro Museo in Figares - One of the many large pieces displayed (Mark and Artemis at the very bottom of the photo)

Mark had read that there was a very lovely town on the coast from Figares called Cadaques, where Dali had also spent many years.As we headed to Cadaques through the countryside we noticed young ladies sitting on the side of the road in lawn chairs. We soon understood that they were prostitutes waiting for customers from the passing vehicles. What a bizarre concept.

As we approached Cadaques from a windy steep mountain road we could see the tiny village on the edge of the shore. A quintessential Mediterranean village of white washed homes snuggled in a bay. It was magical.

Walking around streets of Cadaques

Cadaques is also littered with Dali. He built a fantastic home just outside the village, which is now a museum, and his influence in the village can be felt to this day.

Bay outside of Dalis house a short walk from Cadaques

Dalis house - poolside sitting area

Dalis house - around the pool area

Our hotel snuggled in the little town was run by a fierce fan of Dali. Our room was the Dali Suite, the lobby was full of every book written by or about Dali, and let me tell you there are many. Unusual statues adorned the lobby and photographs of Dali were exhibited on the walls as well as original works. A small gorgeous bust of Dali, actually 5 of them , were displayed behind the front desk and as soon as I saw it I knew I wanted it. Then I found out they were selling for 300 Euros! ($480 CDN). “It’s bronze, a limited edition” said the pompous unfriendly front desk manager. He was a character and although not the type you usually find in the service industry, he fit in perfectly with the eccentricity of the place.

Dalis house - Egg overlooking the lovely bay

Two nights in Cadaques and off we went. Again I had read about a lovely Mideival town called Ainsa in the Pyrannees that was a MUST. So I circled it on the map and tried to figure some kind of route from where we were. That night we were sidetracked by the lovely country roads. I read in the guide that there were “Casa Rural”, (Country Inns) everywhere in Northern Spain. Just watch out for the signs. We took one gravel road that lead us to this fabulous place on the hill over looking the valley but noone was around so we continued on our search. After a number of hours driving through beautiful countryside and many inquries about directions we found another place, Casa Angrille.

The owner was comfortably sitting in the front of the villa smoking his cigar, not expecting any visitors. But here we were. He didn’t speak any English and we were not quite sure the details of the arrangements we pieced together however he and his wife quickly straightened out the rooms, prepared a delicious evening meal and we settled into this gorgeous stone villa in the middle of the most lovely scenic valley. The kids were tired and wanted to explore near to the villa (there were baby goats and a friendly dog) and play table tennis. Mark and I went off for a short walk through the picturesque valley. We literally saw the cows come home.

Casa Anguille

We all slept like logs that night in the peaceful abode.

At this point we were still far from Ainsa but not to worry we would see what was along the way. The owners son at the Casa Angrille was present at breakfast and speaking English he gave us some ideas of where to head next. Unbeknownst to us we were only 50 km away from another country – Andorra. A very small tax free country between Spain and France, how convenient. So we were compelled to see it as he said the scenery was incredible. From low rolling hills to magestic pointed peaks we arrived in Andorra, a strange place set in a steep valley built up with shopping centres, restaurants and hotels. We arrived around 2 pm, which is the worse time in Spain as everything is closed all afternoon. Places open up again around 5 and then run into the night but afternoon is for sleeping and relaxing. Besides the beauty of the canyon Andorra was set in, I personally did not like the look of the fabricated town and since everything was shut down we headed back to Spain.

Scenery heading into Andora

Mideival village - one of the many on our drive around Northern Spain

From there we drove and drove. Every 20 km or so the whole landscape would change and what gorgeous landscape it was. We made our way from village to village searching for the most perfect spot to rest for the night. In one small village we inquired from a elderly chap about a “Casa Rural” anywhere in the area. He didn’t speak a word of English but when we said “how about that place?” (a name of a town written on a sign near where we were stopped) he seemed enthused that it would lead us somewhere. So off we went on this narrow road in the mountains. It wound its way up up up the hillside, over the entire pass to the top of the mountain and over again. We arrived at the town to find nothing but a few old buildings but the vista was incredible. The towering Pyranees before us, the rolling hills all around.

That night we did finally end up in Ainsa because of Mark’s manic driving, a beautiful Mideival town high on a hill. Our rooms were breathtaking with a canopy king bed, gorgeous furniture and a VIEW to die for off our large balcony windows.

Square in Ainsa

View from Mideival village of Ainsa


The next day HIKING. This was probably one of the most beautiful hikes I have been on. Over 5 hours we hiked up the nearby hill to the top, along the ridge, over the otherside to a gorgeous river (where we bathed) and back through poppy fields and a quiet coutry lane to the town.

Hiking outside of Ainsa

Hiking outside of Ainsa

Hiking outside of Ainsa


Not getting up until late the next day we did not want to travel far to the next destination. Only about 40km further into the mountains we ended up in a little town called Fiscal. The kids were wanting to find a place with small kittens or a puppy. And so we happened upon a great little Inn where the owner had a 3 month old pup they played with for hours, where the rooms once again had gorgeous vistas of the mountains and the owner ended up chatting with us into the night and then later with Mark over more glasses of wine.

Walking around villages near Fiscal

Scenery around Fiscal in the Pyranees



Caleb enjoying the 3 month old puppy outside the Inn

Having lunch outside the in at Fiscal


View from our room in Fiscal

One more night before our flight to Paris took us to the coast where we happened upon a large sign “CAMPING”. Mark had been going on about the camping places in France that we had to investigate, information he received from old neighbors of ours Sean and Cynthia. So we stopped to check it out. The kids were bowled over. Massive swimming pool, tennis, table tennis, games room, ampitheatre, restaurants, stores, beachfront… Caleb wanted to do everything that night and NOW. The accommodations were a trailor made for 4 tiny people. We took it. It was already 6:30 and we had to have dinner yet and the pool closed at 7pm so we got busy. After swimming, eating, games room, walking on the beach, then table tennis on the lit courts it was midnight and we had got our money’s worth.

Next morning up early 6am to get to the Barcelona airport and hop on our next plane heading to PARIS!!!!

Lianna