Egypt to Rome (March 29 - April 14)

Mark looking over the Nile
From Egypt to Rome
Mark

Was it because we had come from Cairo, or was it just Rome itself, or both? Whatever the reason, arriving in Rome from Cairo was fantastico, bellisimo, dolce, like having our spirits opened and freed and lifted. Cairo was a dark dream from which we happily awoke.

Mosque in Cairo

Fashion in Cairo

Streets of Cairo

Buying perfume bottles

We found one little restaurant near our hotel - great meat platter

Just walking around the airport in Rome trying to organize a hotel room and figure out how to get into the city was a joy compared to Cairo. Only a few hours before we were weighted down by the heaviness of Cairo. There, the airport was dimly lit, confusing and crowded. As we made our way to the security gate to get to the check-in counter we were surrounded by large groups of unsmiling men, women cloaked from head to toe in black carrying ridiculously large pieces of luggage. I watched as the man in front of me handed the guard on the other side of the metal detector some money, after which he walked through the detector unbothered. I shook my head and gladly made my way to the airplane.

As we drove to Rome proper from the airport we all smiled and laughed and came close to tears with the realization that we had returned to civilization. Cairo was... nice enough. Not nearly as crowded or noisy or dirty as we had heard or had anticipated, although coming from India some weeks before, we all secretly wondered if anything could beat the likes of Mumbai or Delhi. In comparison Cairo was tame. Some fellow Canadians at our Cairo hotel commented on the clatter of taxi cab horns, and we just looked at one another with disbelief, as we all found it quite quiet!

For a city of 22 million Cairo is uncrowded and clean. We all walked around feeling safe. People were very friendly, and the ones who were too friendly were usually trying to get us to buy things. But we were regularly met with "Welcome to Cairo" from people on the street, and were catered to by whomever we had the opportunity to interact with, such as cab drivers, store owners, etc. Still, there was something missing here, something large and important, and yet we could not put our fingers on it.

Entrance to Pyramids

Shinx and Pyramids

Walk like an Egyptian

We were all feeling it though, and so one afternoon, I think after returning from the pyramids, we all felt low and somehow lackadaisical and unenthused. I thought it may be travel weariness. We were contemplating going south to Luxor, which is a city on the Nile and where most of the treasures of Ancient Egypt are found. Lianna had been talking about a Nile cruise since we left Canada, and that was the place to do it. But at that moment it all sounded like much too much hassle: a 12 hour train ride, organizing tours, marching through ruins. So we asked ourselves, where do we really want to go; where do we really want to be right now, as we could be anywhere we wanted. Rome! we all shouted, and so we got on the Internet and booked our tickets to Rome for the day after next, fitting in a quick visit to the Cairo museum and King Tut before leaving.

Arriving in Rome it immediately became clear what had been missing from Cairo: life! laughter! music! women! art! food! wine! dialogue! culture! coffee!

Beautiful Rome, cherry trees in blossom

Outside the Coleseum

Oh what joy! We dumped our stuff in our hotel room, which was small but beautiful and went walking. The streets were alive, and there were cafes and restaurants and every street corner was a masterpiece of architecture and sculpture and refinement. We immediately ate pizza! We walked around close to tears as we looked upon this city whose every movement, brick, sound seems to be a testament to beauty and style. People simply walking and talking Italian on the street was like a mini-opera. Gelato called to us at every corner (and we heeded the call) intermingled with endless pizzarias, pasticerias, and cappucinos! We all giggled and pointed at one amazing site after the other, and as we walked we thanked every Italian we passed, thanked them for being Italian and for Italy, thanked them for their style and food and cars and clothes and love of beauty. We were back; back to civilization, back in the light, back to joy, to strife, to struggle, to art to freedom - all the things which were missing from Cairo.

Lianna loves Rome

Cello player on one of the bridges

Mark with Roman busts

And now as I write this after some 10 days in Rome I feel exactly the same way. We have settled into a funky little apartmento in the Trastevere area. The apartment used to be a stable, but is now a lovely little place in a great area. Here people are out on the streets until dawn, talking, drinking, laughing, discussing.

Fountain in Piazza Del Popollo

Even the door knockers are incredible and unique

Grounds left by old Roman leaders

Inside the Coliseum


Every morning I get up before the rest of the gang is awake and make my way down the block to get 3 or 4 cappucinos and some croissant from Philipo and Ricardo (Ciao Philipo! Gracie mille!), two of the 4 brothers who own this wonderful little cafe. Already I know people in the area, and greet them with "bonjourno, come stae" as I sit on the street sipping the greatest coffee on earth.

Phillippo making coffee

Phillippo, the best espresso maker in town

How great is it to walk around all day saying "Ciao!" and "Arrivederci" and "Gracie"? Our biggest challenge is deciding from which Gelateria to buy our daily (or twice daily) gelato. Pizza is a daily event, and we judge whether it is great, fantastic or simply amazing.

Looking at statue through Calebs glasses

Statues perspective in Rome

By the time we are ready to leave Rome, after close to two weeks there, the kids are comfortable enough to make their way back to the apartment by themselves from Piazza Navrona, about a 20 minute walk - if you know where you're going, or an all-day affair if you don't. We've eaten some amazing food, both at home and in restaurants; we've visited the museums, marvelled at the Berninis and Michelangelos. The expression goes, a lifetime is not enough to see Roma, and it's true. We will be back though, that is for certain.

Mark