The Kingdom of Cambodia, Siem Reap-PART 1 (Nov 30-Dec.5)

Walking to the Border of The Kingdon of Cambodia

Siem Reap, The Kingdom of Cambodia
November 30-December 5, 2008

Why would we go to Siem Reap? For Angkor Watt of course.
Having only heard of Angkor Watt from my good friend Rita who had travelled there last year, I was very curious to see this ancient site, which is also a World Heritage Site.

Our arrival into Cambodia was not pleasant. We were herded around by people trying to seem official but not really explaining anything. From the bus we were first warned of children begging and who may possibly cut us to get money and to follow the guide carefully when walking to the border. We hadn’t even booked a guide so not sure where this fellow came from. The line-up at the border office, a kind of ramshackle extended trailer, was a couple of hours. Then we were herded into another bus to a nearby transfer station where we had the choice to take another smaller bus or a taxi. We opted for the taxi. We had hooked up with a lady from Australia, Trish, (she was in the process of writing a cookbook so testing foods all over Asia) who we hoped could travel with us in the taxi but it could only hold 4 with luggage so she joined another taxi group.

We were told that is would be a 6 hour ride to Siem Reap from that point. So we settled in but after one stop on the dusty bumpy road and 2 ½ hours later we stopped just outside the city. The taxi driver didn’t speak English to explain what was going on so he was on the cell phone making calls. We were saying “Please go to the hotel”. Suddenly we were surrounded with 4-5 young Cambodian guys. We were told every taxi stopped here and that now we would have to get into a tuk tuk for the last 2 km to the city. Well Mark refused to pay a cent or get out of the taxi until we had arrived at the hotel. They didn’t like this as they wanted all the money for the ride immediately, then throw us into a tuk tuk. After some altercations and tension, it was finally decided to pay the tuk tuk driver once we arrived at the hotel.

I had a place that I wanted to go directly to, a referral from a French couple we had met, but the tuk tuk guide, not sure who he was but was joining us for a ride, kept trying to persuade me to go elsewhere.

Anyway we finally arrived at the hotel, disgruntled and confused but safe.

The rest of the time in Siem Reap was wonderful. We woke up the next day. Put out of our mind what had happened the day before, put our trust in the people and the city. The first hotel was fine but we soon discovered for a few dollars more we could get a pool and WIFI so we moved to a hotel with a swimming pool located only a few buildings down. It was lovely to say the least.

Heading in a Tuk Tuk to Angkor Watt

Lianna

Back in Bangkok (Nov.26-30)

Artemis relaxing in hotel lobby of D&D

Return to Bangkok
November 26-30, 2008

We arrived back in Bangkok the day before the airport was taken over. Not really paying attention to news on a daily basis we were not aware of anything until we saw the notice in the elevator of our hotel. From there all the talk began as we were surrounded by tourists who were now stranded in Bangkok. For us Bangkok was a resting place to decide where and what we were going to do next and now that the airport was closed, we were not going to fly anywhere.

Caleb outside the Palace - just walking around

For the next 4 days we talked to various agents about possible routes and places to go and I guess more than anything else we lay around the pool on the rooftop of the D&D. This was the place to be, we had never seen it so packed. For us it was great, people just hanging around with nothing to do, waiting. We gathered up all sorts of travel stories and possible itineraries. Caleb made a friend, young guy from Kelowna, whose family was travelling for 6 months and were now waiting to get out for their flight to Australia. Mark and I went out for dinner with the parents and another couple one night and had a great fish feast and good conversation. The Kelowna couple, travelling with 2 children, one 14 and one 18, were going through some similar challenges that we were, so very interesting to swap stories.

Having another delicious meal on the streets

A hi-light for Artemis was going to see the opening of a movie she had been waiting for “TWILIGHT”. She had already completed reading the series of 4 books, books which we had to search for in every city until she found them. Then she was very torn to part with them once finished but after carrying them she realized there was only one choice.

Seeing a movie in another country is always an experience. The theatre was enormous with plush comfortable seating. We had to sit through at lest 30-40 minutes of commercials and pre-views first and then we all had to stand to sing the salute to the King – Thailand is obsessed with their king and it seems to be hammered into their heads wherever one goes.

The movie was a success! We all enjoyed it. Artemis was pleased but was also very critical of things they missed or expectations she had had for the movie.

Having breakfast at our favorite - Hello Cafe (they make homemade English muffins)

The airport was under siege, there was talk of the occasional random bomb going off, the traffic was horrendous, we were receiving many emails from concerned family and friends but sitting there on the rooftop of the D&D or walking around the city, one would not have any idea that there was anything drastic going on at all.

We left Bangkok on a bus early morning of the 30th to explore Siem Reap, Cambodia.


Lianna

Koh Tao, Thailand

Introduction from Lianna, Scuba diving by Artemis

Koh Tao is a small island off the Southeast coast of Thailand. Taking a boat from the mainland, Koh Tao is about a 75 minute boat ride. We took the large catamaran which holds a couple hundred people. The waves were very rough and although Artemis and I managed to make it through, there were many passengers heaving over the side, including Caleb. Mark and Caleb spent the whole journey on the upper deck with many others, trying to make it through the journey.

On a small island, in a hut, living simple lives of swimming, snorkelling, reading and napping, eating slow delicious meals, sleeping long comfortable sleeps. That is what I did in Koh Tao for 9 lovely days.

Our Hut for 9 days

For four of those days the kids and Mark learned to Scuba Dive gaining their PADI certification as Scuba Divers. While they were busy studying and diving I took the time to go for a few runs to the other side of the island where the wind was soaring and the waves crashing on the shore. On the side of the island we lived, it was much calmer and snorkelling, beach tanning was the main activity.
Lianna


Scuba diving
Koh Tao, Thailand

I went Scuba Diving! I actually did it! I am now a certified PADI Scuba Diver, Lets rewind a bit to the first day.

I’m on a boat. I’m about to jump in the water and do my first dive. I no I’m ready after sitting in a classroom for 3 days learning about Scuba Diving, all the dangers it brings and how to prevent them, or how much fun it is and things you’ll see. Now it’s time to put that knowledge to use.

Boat heading out for Scuba diving - the yellow one

My Scuba diving teacher says “everyone ready?” We nod then he shows us how to jump in the water. Right hand on your regulator and mask, left hand on your wait belt, look straight forward take a step of the boat and into the water. I watch attentively and nod my head. He jumps in and I realise I’m next. The boat we’re on is swaying so much from the waves; the tank is so heavy on my back I can barely stand. On top of that my fins are on my feet so I cant walk that well. My stomach is doing flips like this boat, man is it wavy out here. I stumble forward and do what the instructor did. I take a deep breath and jump.

My head pops up instantly. The instructor tells me to fully inflate my BCD (buoyancy control device). I do as he tells me and then swim away from the boat so the other people can jump. My dad jumps next then my brother. I watch as there heads pop out of the water one at a time. There are only 5 people in are group including the instructor.

After we’re all in the water the instructor (Nacho) signals to go to the rope. We’re supposed to descend while holding on to the rope so it’s easier to go to the bottom. The bottom is 12 meters deep. We all swim over to the rope and slowly start to descend while deflating are BCDs. As you descend you have to equalize your ears, witch means to pinch your nose and blow through it. Then I see it. The coral, the fish, the bottom.Instantlly all my fears disappear and I am overcome with amazement and curiosity. There are two big rocks and wedged between them is the rope. I look around and see 2 schools of fish pass by each school containing about 100 fish. Nacho signals to let go of the rope and to follow him, and we do.

Returning from the first dive.

Exploring the under sea world is one of the most amazing, thriling, scarry and beautiful experiences in my life. There is life and action in every direction I look. As we swim along I see Spotted Groupers witch are about a foot long and its either black grey or white with polka dots all over its body like a cheetah. We see lots of Butterfly fish that travel in pairs for their whole life. Butterfly fish are the shape of a rounded square with a little triangle fin, they’re as flat as a pancake and they’ve got pointed faces. Nacho points out a Blue Spotted Stingray that’s hiding under a rock, its baby blue with some yellow dotes on its back. Me and my dad are looking around and then Nacho signals to come over. We see our group is huddled in line they’re all looking at a fish a couple of meters away, it’s a Trigger fish. Trigger fish are about one and a half feet long they’re round and have got glowing eyes, there supposed to be dangerous. Nacho says they bite your fines. He has showed us a dent in his fin from a Trigger fish biting him. It looks like the Trigger fish is eating something, we stare at it for a few minutes then move on. Caleb (my brother) starts to nudge me and then points to a Puffer fish (its not puffed) they can only puff up 3 or 4 times in their life. The Puffer fish has kind of a square head and then its body slimes like a pyramid (its head as the bottom). We stare at it for a while. Near the Puffer fish I see an Angel fish. It is a beautiful fish. It’s kind of the same shape as a Butterfly fish but it’s more rounded and much bigger but still quite flat. It is black with the most shimmery gorgeous blue stripes down its body. They’re not strait stripes they are wavy stripes. Of course we saw lots of anemonies with clown fish living in them. I see so much more that I could go on forever..

Certified Divers

We did another dive today ,and tomorrow we have two more! The rest of the dives were just as wonderful.

So that’s it, I am now a certified Scuba Diver. I can go Scuba Diving wherever, whenever I want.

By Artemis Walden

Bangkok

Shopping, shopping and more shopping in Bangkok

Its been at least 18 years since I was last in Bangkok, for Mark longer. Coming from Khatmandu we had no idea what to expect. We arrived at a sleek new airport, washrooms were clean, there was toilet paper. We searched for a room with the travel agency at the airport. She could only find us a room for $80 a night. “Very busy in Bangkok” she says. We take what she offers for 2 nights. She says “This is the best deal”. We decided we will look for other accommodation once we get settled as it was already late.

The hotel is clean but nothing special. We do find a Night Bizarre walking distance from the hotel. This Market is massive, with a huge eating area, all delicious Thai food and a market of all sorts of goods, clothing, art. We see all sorts of incredible stuff we want to buy.

Curries and more curries

The next day we visit a few areas in Bangkok. The city is not what I remember. It has become modern, high paced, it is clean and a sense of orderliness. The people are friendly and many speak a few words of English. We visit the Siam downtown area. It is expensive and high end. There is a street of hotels that are more affordable. We find possible places to stay. Artemis wants a pool so we are looking for cheap, clean, nice and a good pool. We don’t find it in this area but we do find just the right hotel for the price in Khaosan Road. This is the tourist area of Bangkok.

Easting delicious Thai Food

It is has changed so much since I was last in Bangkok that I do not recognize anything. It has grown in size. There are streets of hotels and services for tourists but it also seems that it attracts Thai people for its vibrant night life.

Feeding pigeons and fish at the river - kids have a good time.

The hotel we find is perfect. We have two rooms which are simple but very nice and there is a pool on the rooftop! We indulge in the best of Bangkok which includes lots of fabulous markets and delicious food. Bangkok also includes lots of personal pampering. I indulge in a facial massage – fabulous – pedicure and hair highlighting. Artemis was too busy in the pool to do much but she did find time for a manicure and pedicure.

Eating amazingly flavorful Bangkok soup

One day we decide to take a tour to see some sights just outside of Bangkok. The tour includes visiting the Floating Market, which sounds interesting on the brochure but ended up being a HUGE tourist trap we called the Floating Junk Market. Next we are taken to the Bridge at the River Kwai. Seemingly interesting but really nothing there except the bridge, no information, a crappy museum. We left there quickly and we hoped the final destination would prove to be exciting, The Tiger Temple. This was certainly the hi-light of the day and since we had not really read up about the temple before going we are more than pleasantly surprised.

The Tiger Temple was established in 1999 by a monk who was instructed by his superiors to find a higher calling. He started when an injured wild bird was delivered to him He cared for and healed this bird. When people heard of this, one day a baby tiger was presented to him. This tiger had been a pet, but soon too much for the owner it was sent to a taxidermist to be stuffed. Already injected with chemicals somehow the somehow got a hold of it and brought it to the monk. He cared for it and healed the tiger which stayed with him. Hearing of his ability with tigers, other abandoned cubs were brought to him (abandoned b/c of poaching). He also cared for them. The number grew and the cats began to mate. At the same time other animals started to gather around the monk. (a short version of the story)


Artemis petting a baby (we ran out of battery for the petting of the adults tigers. AHH)

So now there is The Tiger Temple where at least 10 grown tigers and a number of cubs, numerous wild pigs, oxen, birds and goats which live peacefully and safely. It has been opened to tourist for them to pet the Bengal Tiger, walk amongst them. It was amazing to kneel beside these tigers and stoke their fur. The monk was there, along with a number of attendants, many of who were from abroad and one I who came from Vancouver, escorted you amongst the tigers as they basked in the sun.
It was definitely one of the Thailand Hi-lights. Unfortunately I don’t have any photos b/c the battery died! I did take video but am not able to upload this to my blog.

Crunched in a Bangkok elevator
Back to Bangkok and then on to the overnight bus ride to Koh Tah, Thailand.
Lianna

Check out more photos on http://www.flickr.com/photos/travelallplanes

Chitwan National Park in Nepal - Part 2

Contiued from part 1

After our second amazing elephant bath we rent some bikes and take a ride down to the elephant breeding grounds. What we didnt know was that the ride there was crazy. It was a gravel road but the rocks were big like the size of your fist. And the bikes were crap with no spokes and very hard to control. We get there and there is just a river with a guy washing his jeep in it and a bridge made out of cement bags and bamboo which is about 60m long. So Mark sees this guy selling peanuts so he buys a handfull and were nipping on the peanuts while crossing this treaturous bridge not knowing were were going. ON the other side of the bridge theres a big field with lots of water buffallo running around and a couple cows.

Bridge to the Elephant rehabilitation centre

We headed across the feild and went upto a little hut that saold the tickets. We head through a little gate and walk down a little path and theres a big L shaped outdoor elephant pen. There are about 30 elephants all about 3 metres away, and they're all chained to the ground. We later found out they were chained because some times they run away and rampage the nearest village. We look at all the teenage elephants and then finally get to a mother and its baby. The mom is doing some kind of dance and the baby is trying to break a ball of hay which has been rolled but it is actually just stepping on its trunk. It was pretty cute. Artemis is squealing with joy. She won't stop going on about how that was the cutest thing shes ever seen. But the mom won't stop doing this weird dance. For a while we thought the mom was trying to teach something to its little baby but she just wouldn’t stop! So we ask one of the tour guides what she’s doing and he says it’s just a nervous habit. So we continue until we see another babby.


This time the baby walks right up to us and a whole bunch of people gather around and start petting it. The mom looks like she is gonna have a heart attack but the baby seems to bee enjoying itself. And then this one guy backs up into me really hard and I'm like what the hell! So I turn around and the baby elephant is running right at me! So I start running away and it just goes back to getting pet. The baby rammed a few more people before another baby came to check out whats going on! And then about 10 guys come that work there with these huge bags of little balls of hay.

Baby Elephant


Artemis and Caleb petting the baby

So all the elephants go back into their spots and start eating. But they eat the hay really weirdly. First they kind of unravel it a bit and then stick it in there mouth and then pull it all out again as one big string of hay! So I ask a guy why they do that and he says that there is sweet potato and rice inside and that they eat all the hay later. So we go to watch how the baby is doing and its realllllllly funny. Its still on its first hay roll and it cant get the first bit unwound. And then it gets fed up so it starts shaking its head trying to break it, just like a puppy dog with a chew toy. And then next thing we know the rice inside is flying everywhere. It picks up the sweet potato and eats it and then it seems happy.

Our bike back we were back on the gravel but on top of that all the elephants are coming back from their jungle ride and we're trying not to bump into them. But what feels like forever.
Caleb


All of us sitting on the back of the elephant

On our final day we decide to try the elephant ride again in order to see Rhinos but still not luck. Somewhere else I guess. Then back to Katmandu.

The drive back of just over 100km once again takes about 5 hours. There is a protest at one point, some farmers are blocking the road protesting the price of rice, that takes and hour and then Caleb gets sick and we have to stop while he pukes his brains out. Entering Khatmandu we are once again amazed by the total and utter mayhem.

We returned to the Melungtse for a few nights,our favorite hotel, finally ate Tandoori at the Richmond Bakery and Cafe, it was fantastic, and then off to Bangkok.
Lianna
Check out more photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/travelallplanes

Chitwan National Park in Nepal- Part 1

Nepal from Caleb’s perspective.
The last few days we have been in Chitwan which is about a 5 hour drive from Thamel which is in Kathmandu. The driver picked us up at about 11:00 am after a delicious sandwich, cinnamon roll and mango smoothie (one of the best breakfasts in Nepal so far.) Anyway the driver was a nice guy with a nicer car then all the other drivers. They all had these crapola Suzuki’s and he had a nice orange one (I forgot the name but it was nice).

So we're driving, and driving, and driving we see all the majestic mountains and cute villages and all that. We stop for lunch at this cozy place with tables outside that are just everywhere it’s like a maze, there was about 7 staircases and they all led to a different table. Of course we sit at the first one. There is this group of about 15 people and they're all French. Mark orders a dhal baht which is rice, veg. curry, dhal and pickles. So we're waiting and waiting and the French group all get there dhal baht and were still waiting for Marks. 20 minutes later I get up and go get the drinks because they haven't come yet. I mean at least we will have something to drink while we're waiting. Ok so again with the waiting and another 20 minutes later the frenchies have already had seconds and our driver comes up to us and he’s already finished and we haven’t gotten Marks food. Of course Mark was ready to leave but his stomach wouldn’t let him. So our driver says he'll go tell the cooks to hurry up. After about and 40 min we get our food and the waiter feels really bad so he keeps coming back with more rice and more dhal and more curry and all that stuff.

And then we're back on the road, and nothing exiting happens till we get to Chitwan. We get to our hotel and it’s called Jungle Adventure World.

Outside the Cabin

I know it sounds like a ride at Disneyland, but its comfy inside and the beds look sleepable, and its 15$ for two rooms, one night. The first day we don't do anything just look around the town talk to a tourist info dude and all that jazz.

The second day we don’t do anything until about 2 when we go for a canoe ride. The canoes are reallllllly long and skinny. We all get in and have two guides and one canoe driver.

Canoeing along the river

So we're just bookin down the river looking for crocs and then the guide sees one! And we're all like wooooow. And Artemis is basically pissing her pants of fright. Well let me explain the situation we're in for 1 sec. Ok so we're on one side of this mini island that attaches to the land and u can get in from one side, and the croc isn’t on the island thingy but it’s on land. So we go to the bottom of the island and turn around and come back up to see the croc. We went right up close to it and it was pretty small but it was a short snout which means it eats everything so we're all pretty scared because at any second it could hop into the water and eat us all, But there's nowhere we can go so we look at it and then continue down river to our destination.


We only see one more croc for the rest of the canoe ride but we couldn’t get close at all so we didn’t really see well. Then we get to the place we we're supposed to be and we all get out. By the way the plan was we take a canoe ride down the river and then walk back through the jungle back to our hotel. Artemis is still reallllllly scared.

Starting the walk in the jungle

So we get into the jungle and the guide stops us and says "If we see a rhino then climb a tree more then six feet high and then he says if we see a tiger then keep in a group and then if we see a sloth bear then they'll fight them off with sticks. (By the way sloth bears are very dangerous and aggressive like a grizzly bear.) And we're walking and he tells us about these red bugs that are everywhere. They are about as big as a pinkie finger. And they are e-v-e-r-y-w-h-e-r-e and u knows Artemis she was SCARED I think she was shaking through the whole walk.

We didn’t see anything except a deer and those bugs actually, wait not true we did see one more crocodile when we where on this ledge. It was about 15 meters away and it was bigger then the first one we saw. I took some pictures and watched it for a while but it didn’t move so we continued on our walk.

We get back safe and Mark and mom plan our 6:00am elephant ride for the next day. Alls well we get a good sleep considering getting up at 6, none the less we are very exited. We walk to our elephant and hopp on the back onto a not so comfortable seat but we are in Nepal so what do you expect. The elephant starts walking towards the place where we start the actual walk in the forest (about a 10 min walk). We are very exited to see some rhinos. The guy back in Thamel said there was a 100% chance of seeing a rhino. We get to the forest and we see where all the tourists are. There are about 20 elephants all with 4 or more people on them. Beneath us there are kids trying to sell us bananas to give to the elephant. We have to wait about 5 minutes before we can go on the walk (I have no clue why). But we get into the forest and the elephant is very wobbly, but we get used to it. We see some peacocks and some deer and some cool plants and before we know it where back where we started. Where all like what?!!??!? It felt like 10 minutes. Sure enough we had been gone for 45 minutes and didn’t see any rhinos. We where pissed off. We can’t believe it. He said 100% chance!!!

Well it’s all over now so we better get back to the hotel, but the elephant drops us off at the beginning of the forest. It’s about a 25 minute walk back and where all mad and tired and now we don’t have a way off getting back. So we hang around in the parking lot and then we sit in some random jeep. And then a bout 20 minutes later a guy comes and asks if we are going to town we say yes and we hopp into a different jeep and he takes us back. So we go down to the river to grab a bite to eat and chillax in the sun. And where there for a while and before we know it it’s like 10:00. And then we see and elephant coming and it goes with its trainer and hops into the river to take a bath. There’s no one else there but this is reallllllly cool!


We watch it for a bit and then some people come and more people and more elephants until there are about 30 people and 4 elephants in the river having a bath. The cool thing is you pay 100 rupees and you get to sit on the elephant and it sprays you and stuff!

Well we're watching this one elephant that had a certain trick. It could sort of move its skin and jiggle its back and everybody falls off. Where looking at them like come on stay on the goddamn elephant it can’t be that hard! Well me and Artemis decided to try because it looked like a lot of fun. We go into the room and change into our bathing suites and get ready for the ride of our life. Once you’re on the little platform to get onto the elephant, looking down on its bare back, your like oh-my-god. Artemis hesitantly steps on while forcing a little smile and I follow behind her. And then another lady comes on, who spoke Nepalese. Where getting ready to go in to the river and not to get knocked off but man is it scary! It takes about 30 seconds for the trainer to get the elephant to actually do the trick (the longest 30 seconds of my life) and where both so scared we practically jump off. Once in the river u have to get back n the elephant.




So what you do is grab on to its ears and step on its trunk and it lifts u up and u step on its head and the go right to the back. Artemis goes first and she falls off the first 3 times and then finally gets on. It doesn’t look too hard. I get it right on the first try. On the second try to stay on the elephant us both fall of the first time to. But we have one more go! So we step on the trunk (this time I go first) and there are six people crammed on the elephant. So it shakes and I don’t fall off!! I’m so excited I don’t even realize that it’s already started shaking a second time and then I fall off.

Well that’s all the elephant riding for today. So we go and grab some lunch and meet up with a couple we talked to yesterday we chat with them for a while and they say there going for an elephant ride tomorrow through the jungle. We wish them luck and chilax for the rest of the day.

The next day is our last day so we go and do another elephant bath and its much like the first time except this time there are about 5 people there and 5 elephants. We take the elephant we took the day before and this time I stay on for five shakes and then the trainer says to do a really big shake and I just can’t hold on.
More to come on Chitwan National Park
Caleb

Reflections on Khatmandu

Khatmandu
Cows and goats graze on the streets.
Dogs everywhere, sleeping peacefully on the side of roads, not moving for the frantic traffic.
Indian man follows me around the shopping square, he knows I want that little wooden chess set.
The mother rattles the bell for the blessings of the Hindu gods.
A mouse scurries through our apartment.
From the rooftop we see children playing, no shoes, drawing on the brick wall with chalk, one seven year old girl carries her year old sister around as she plays and draws.
Soupy spicy curry mixing with rice, using your right hand to pop it into your mouth.
Stuck in a traffic jam, sitting in a rickshaw, a narrow road, people are barely getting by the bottleneck halts all movement and then suddenly it is released.
Sitting on the second floor having breakfast, a merchant calls from the street, we think he is selling oranges, he holds up a large fish.
Buying art from a sweet Nepalese man, who serves us tea, talks of the art, bargains for the best price, he sells well.
Streets of dirt and rocks, children sit and play with plastic bags they have found.
Pigs chow in the river, on the river of garbage where a dead goat lies.
Bright coloured saris flow in the wind of dust.
Police hold bamboo canes, the army holds long rifles.
A place where Namaste means hello, good-bye, thank-you, no thank-you, I don’t speak Nepalese so I am going to say this all the time.
A city of rubble and seemingly mass confusion.
The scenery is lost from all the smog.
People coughing, choking, spitting, hoarking, Namaste they smile.
Khatmandu

Lianna