South India to Mumbai (Feb 5-12)

Lost in thought of what to do next

South India (Feb 5-13)

Post Ashram we required a few days of recuperation. We had heard that houseboating along the narrow riverways out of Allepey was a very relaxing and absolutely “Must Do” in the area. So after a day of rest in Thiravanadrapuram (town closest to where the Ashram was located) we headed by local bus to Allepey.

We arrived in a small and lovely little river town. Not exactly knowing where to stay but having a few names in hand, a tout with a lovely brochure and cheap price was able to lure us from the bus to his place. It was a quiet spot, very reasonable, which we crashed at for the night. He said that the main street was walking distance away and the beach a short tuktuk ride. Not completely true. After a bus ride in the streaming heat in India however, I swear you are almost ready to crash anywhere. The shower was clean so that was enough for the moment.

Caleb on the houseboat-jumping exercises

Houseboating.
As the Tuktuk arrived along the riverfront to where the houseboats were stationed we were amazed and overwhelmed by the numbers of boats sitting in a a line along the riverfront. The river walkway allows you to embark every boat if you want. They are simple basic boats to luxurious quarters for either 2 people or up to 10 or so. There are some with double decks and they all have their own unique touch in décor – that is the make or break it for most people, well and the price. Obviously the nicer and newer that they are the more expensive the boat. We were guided through many boats, each one similar in layout but unique in style. We realized that after seeing a number of the boats, every boatman had the same speal about where he was going to take you, the food, the incredible services etc. If you inquired about something they did not want to answer, they just pretended they didn’t understand. A question like “How do you deal with the sewage system on the boat?” (The Lonely Planet had mentioned that many boats are starting to convert but many are still on the old method of dumping it all into the river). We found that many have not converted and probably will not and that many of the boatmen know nothing of what you are talking about.
We finally decided on a semi-luxurious boat with 2 comfortable bedrooms, large sitting and eating area, TV and DVD machine. It was more than worth it. I would suggest anyone wanting a total chill out vacation, totally serviced – do it.

Getting on the boat, big Welcome sign

The only hitch was that what they sell you and what you really get are slightly skewed. We were told, we leave at 11am, have lunch on the boat, cruise the narrow passageways, stop around 6pm for dinner and bed and then arrive back at the pier the next morning by around 9am.
In reality we left around 12noon, the boat stopped around 1pm for lunch, didn’t leave until 2:30. Cruised in the wide open riverways, stopped for the night around 5pm whereupon a small row boat shows up and informs us that the big boat can not go through the narrow passages and we would have to hire a small boat to do so. We leave the docking spot around 8am to arrive at the port, which was very close by, at about 8:30am.

Chillin on the boat

No point getting upset though. It was a truly relaxing and enjoyable time. The food was amazing, you hardly notice that anyone else is on the boat. We slept very well and because there was a TV and DVD we all watched from the beginning to the end in English “Slumdog Millionaire”, which we had purchased at a local pirated DVD shop.

Many other boats around

Lianna relaxing

Sunset that night

We would have been able to do another night physically but there were train tickets and arrangements to make before meeting Jesse in Mumbai so we had to get back and keep heading north.

Ernakulum
Our next stop from Allepey which we did by taxi, was Ernakulum (an airport is located here and we were planning to fly to Mumbai from here). We found a very cheap clean room in a great part of town, close to everything, and we settled in for a few days.

Posing - lots of these jewelery advertisements around

Sick of going out to eat for every meal we started to order in. There were a few great restaurants close to the hotel and all it took was to call to the reception who kindly told us that they would send up a boy. Next thing you know a young man shows up at the door. We tell him we want fried chicken from one place across the street and a few specialty dishes from another vegetarian restaurant a few doors down as well as to pick up some drinks from the store below. We hand him 500 rupees and off he goes. In no more than a half hour he is back with all the food and drinks, wrapped and ready to eat. We did this for a few nights and I think we had some of the best food in all of India which included delicious spiced fried chicken, cheese stuffed tomato curry and cashew nut curry with soft and warm naan bread.

Artemis`s Birthday - 12 years old



A short ferry ride across the bay is a small town called Fort Cochin. Located here is one of the few Synagogues in India and being a port town, lots of European and Asian influences.

Looking out to the Bay

A hi-light was Artemis purchasing fragrances and small glass bottles in one of the many fragrance shops. The shopkeepers were more than willing to spend hours with her going through every fragrance. To keep Caleb busy, a a male relative who was also in the shop led him to a shop across the street where he swore his brother would give him a good deal. I guess he did because Caleb came back with a new shoulder bag and a new t-shirt (this is extravagant for Caleb as he usually buys nothing). Meanwhile Artemis relished in the colored bottles of all shapes and sizes and the aromas of exotic essences. Artemis and I had our arms covered with smells after leaving the shop and she had a few beautiful glass cylinders filled with the sweet smelling perfumes. She was happy.

Testing fragrances

Of course finding the sweetest little tea shop was also a hi-light. We had sandwiches and cake and tea in this clean and funky little spot. (delicacies we had not had for months). We also had many conversation with other tourists as we were sitting around a large circular table which could hold up to 10 people. When we first sat down, with another group of 3, we were informed that we must introduce ourselves. A chatty English man kept us all in conversation. When they left others took their place bringing new stories to entertain us of adventure in India and other parts of the world.

Tea Shop

Artemis with her Birthday sandwich

The Synagogue was a beautiful little building tucked away amongst the crowded buildings and windy streets. It was still being maintained however and for only 2 rupees, and if you took your shoes off and wore a doti, you could enter the magical little building.

Artemis and I also experienced the fun of purchasing gorgeous material and having it tailored into a Churida (A punjabi dress of long top and pant set). We located a lovely little shop run by an Indian woman (very rare as most shops are run by men). And she knew her stuff. She helped us choose beautiful materials pulling out several colors and patterns which all ended up in a big pile, later to be folded and sorted by her employees. Then measuring and choosing styles and patterns to be made. It was great fun and Artemis felt like a princess getting ready for a ball as she usually imagines herself to be.

Trying on different fabrics

Fabric Shop


Final outfit

Plane is 6 hours late leaving Ernakulum but somehow the time goes by quickly sitting in the airport. We find things to do somehow. Once we arrive in Mumbai it is almost dark. Luckily Patricia (Jesse`s mom (Caleb`s friend)) has a hotel booked and all we have to do is let the cabby know where to go.

We made it. Jesse and Patricia are arriving later in the evening. We are excited to be having a new travel companion, Caleb can barely sleep the night.

Lianna

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