Arrival in Nepal - October 26

Artemis looking over the canyon at the border crossing

The Tibetian border did not open until 10am and we were only about 5 km away however we still arose early as we were told there will be a line-up and a rush to get through.


Line-up of trucks goes on forever

After breakfast our driver drove us down the crowded canyon about 4 km. but then had to dump us out as there was traffic blocking the way up and down and he had no choice but to turn around before getting completely stuck. Artune, our guide walked with us to the Tibetian border crossing where many other tourists and guides waited for the doors to open.

While waiting Mark struck up a conversation with an older man who suddenly appeared on his mountain bike.

He was saddled up with all the necessary gear and we could hardly believe that he had ventured on that crazy canyon road by bike. We found out that he had not only traversed from Lhasa but from Germany, he had biked his way through up to Mongolia, down through China, into Tibet and was now heading into Nepal. He seemed unfazed by his adventure but the rest of the tourists and us were amazed.

The border finally opened at 10:20 (the Chinese officials informed the anxiously waiting groups that they had complete some cleaning before opening the doors). It was incredible to us that a border crossing is not open 24 hours. Trucks parked along the roadway in both directions of the border have to sometimes wait sometime 2-3 days or more before actually getting through.

Luckily for us we had a very aggressive and well organized guide. She managed to push us up to the front and get us through with little problem. We bid her good-bye at that point, and turned to the flock of young men waiting to assist all the confused tourists to the Nepalese border and beyond.

We were convinced by one young fellow who then led us to the Nepalese border to obtain our Visas. Luckily we had brought along a number of passport photos which we presented and were quickly issued entry. At the point we were informed that we would have to walk 2km to where the taxi was located. It was amazing the degree of recovery once at this lower altitude and although we were not at our healthiest we all managed to strap into back pack mode and proceed down the windy steep road.






Once we were walking we realized why walking was the only choice. Trucks were parked on every inch of the roadway blocking all traffic completely. We had to weave our way between trucks and people along the narrow canyon roadway. We tried to avoid having to walk anywhere on the edge of the canyon but at one point when we came to a waterfall flowing over the roadway into the canyon at least at ankle depth and we were presented with a rickety bridge crossing, there was not much choice.
I choose walking through the water. The others ventured across the bridge quickly crossing and not looking below at the daunting 30m or so drop.


Weaving between the trucks

It was amazing to see people living on the steep edges of the canyon who serviced the truckers and tourists. Living a mountain goat like existence these people had small stores fronts jutting out into the side of the road while their living quarters dangled over the edge of the cliff on stilts.


At one point we saw three could not have been more than 2 year old sitting alone about a foot from the edge of this canyon drop playing. I could barely look. Although being the cautious western that I am I looked around for parents or for any concerned locals. Not a one.

The young man escorting us dashed up ahead as soon as he was able to get any opening, he rode a motorbike. Then he would suddenly appear again, retrieve one of our backpacks and head back down. At one point Caleb disappeared down the hill on the back of the motorbike and then Artemis. That was definitely a hi light for them. I on the other hand had to quickly release any fears and just go with the flow.



There are some accidents I guess

We arrived to a small 4 door car boasting as our taxi. We and our four bags all squeezed in and headed towards Khatmandu. The road in Nepal was somewhat better, meaning paved in most areas. I think after the Tibet road experience not much will come close. The ride was long twisting through the mountainside. We could see Tibet as one side of the canyon is Tibet and the other Nepal.


Buying snacks along the way

We stopped for our first Dal Bhat meal at a roadside restaurant. Dal Bhat is a large tray of an assortment of curries either Vegie or Meat. We opted for veggie. With your dollop of rice and using your right hand, you scoop up the curries and plop them into your mouth. Dal Bhat is one price, eat all you want. The continually return with refills of any of the curries or rice. Washing this down with beer we were totally satisfied. Caleb and Artemis try and eat anything now and when the food is good, eat a lot of it.

We arrived in Khatmandu mid afternoon. Entering the city we were struck with chaotic traffic, cows and goats wandering along the roadsides, people trudging through the dusty roads in flip flops and the incessant noise of honking. The Nepalese people are unique. They are a mixture of Indian, Tibetian and Chinese. Some people look obviously Indian or Chinese or Tibetian while many others are mixtures of all three.
Lianna