Chitwan National Park in Nepal- Part 1

Nepal from Caleb’s perspective.
The last few days we have been in Chitwan which is about a 5 hour drive from Thamel which is in Kathmandu. The driver picked us up at about 11:00 am after a delicious sandwich, cinnamon roll and mango smoothie (one of the best breakfasts in Nepal so far.) Anyway the driver was a nice guy with a nicer car then all the other drivers. They all had these crapola Suzuki’s and he had a nice orange one (I forgot the name but it was nice).

So we're driving, and driving, and driving we see all the majestic mountains and cute villages and all that. We stop for lunch at this cozy place with tables outside that are just everywhere it’s like a maze, there was about 7 staircases and they all led to a different table. Of course we sit at the first one. There is this group of about 15 people and they're all French. Mark orders a dhal baht which is rice, veg. curry, dhal and pickles. So we're waiting and waiting and the French group all get there dhal baht and were still waiting for Marks. 20 minutes later I get up and go get the drinks because they haven't come yet. I mean at least we will have something to drink while we're waiting. Ok so again with the waiting and another 20 minutes later the frenchies have already had seconds and our driver comes up to us and he’s already finished and we haven’t gotten Marks food. Of course Mark was ready to leave but his stomach wouldn’t let him. So our driver says he'll go tell the cooks to hurry up. After about and 40 min we get our food and the waiter feels really bad so he keeps coming back with more rice and more dhal and more curry and all that stuff.

And then we're back on the road, and nothing exiting happens till we get to Chitwan. We get to our hotel and it’s called Jungle Adventure World.

Outside the Cabin

I know it sounds like a ride at Disneyland, but its comfy inside and the beds look sleepable, and its 15$ for two rooms, one night. The first day we don't do anything just look around the town talk to a tourist info dude and all that jazz.

The second day we don’t do anything until about 2 when we go for a canoe ride. The canoes are reallllllly long and skinny. We all get in and have two guides and one canoe driver.

Canoeing along the river

So we're just bookin down the river looking for crocs and then the guide sees one! And we're all like wooooow. And Artemis is basically pissing her pants of fright. Well let me explain the situation we're in for 1 sec. Ok so we're on one side of this mini island that attaches to the land and u can get in from one side, and the croc isn’t on the island thingy but it’s on land. So we go to the bottom of the island and turn around and come back up to see the croc. We went right up close to it and it was pretty small but it was a short snout which means it eats everything so we're all pretty scared because at any second it could hop into the water and eat us all, But there's nowhere we can go so we look at it and then continue down river to our destination.


We only see one more croc for the rest of the canoe ride but we couldn’t get close at all so we didn’t really see well. Then we get to the place we we're supposed to be and we all get out. By the way the plan was we take a canoe ride down the river and then walk back through the jungle back to our hotel. Artemis is still reallllllly scared.

Starting the walk in the jungle

So we get into the jungle and the guide stops us and says "If we see a rhino then climb a tree more then six feet high and then he says if we see a tiger then keep in a group and then if we see a sloth bear then they'll fight them off with sticks. (By the way sloth bears are very dangerous and aggressive like a grizzly bear.) And we're walking and he tells us about these red bugs that are everywhere. They are about as big as a pinkie finger. And they are e-v-e-r-y-w-h-e-r-e and u knows Artemis she was SCARED I think she was shaking through the whole walk.

We didn’t see anything except a deer and those bugs actually, wait not true we did see one more crocodile when we where on this ledge. It was about 15 meters away and it was bigger then the first one we saw. I took some pictures and watched it for a while but it didn’t move so we continued on our walk.

We get back safe and Mark and mom plan our 6:00am elephant ride for the next day. Alls well we get a good sleep considering getting up at 6, none the less we are very exited. We walk to our elephant and hopp on the back onto a not so comfortable seat but we are in Nepal so what do you expect. The elephant starts walking towards the place where we start the actual walk in the forest (about a 10 min walk). We are very exited to see some rhinos. The guy back in Thamel said there was a 100% chance of seeing a rhino. We get to the forest and we see where all the tourists are. There are about 20 elephants all with 4 or more people on them. Beneath us there are kids trying to sell us bananas to give to the elephant. We have to wait about 5 minutes before we can go on the walk (I have no clue why). But we get into the forest and the elephant is very wobbly, but we get used to it. We see some peacocks and some deer and some cool plants and before we know it where back where we started. Where all like what?!!??!? It felt like 10 minutes. Sure enough we had been gone for 45 minutes and didn’t see any rhinos. We where pissed off. We can’t believe it. He said 100% chance!!!

Well it’s all over now so we better get back to the hotel, but the elephant drops us off at the beginning of the forest. It’s about a 25 minute walk back and where all mad and tired and now we don’t have a way off getting back. So we hang around in the parking lot and then we sit in some random jeep. And then a bout 20 minutes later a guy comes and asks if we are going to town we say yes and we hopp into a different jeep and he takes us back. So we go down to the river to grab a bite to eat and chillax in the sun. And where there for a while and before we know it it’s like 10:00. And then we see and elephant coming and it goes with its trainer and hops into the river to take a bath. There’s no one else there but this is reallllllly cool!


We watch it for a bit and then some people come and more people and more elephants until there are about 30 people and 4 elephants in the river having a bath. The cool thing is you pay 100 rupees and you get to sit on the elephant and it sprays you and stuff!

Well we're watching this one elephant that had a certain trick. It could sort of move its skin and jiggle its back and everybody falls off. Where looking at them like come on stay on the goddamn elephant it can’t be that hard! Well me and Artemis decided to try because it looked like a lot of fun. We go into the room and change into our bathing suites and get ready for the ride of our life. Once you’re on the little platform to get onto the elephant, looking down on its bare back, your like oh-my-god. Artemis hesitantly steps on while forcing a little smile and I follow behind her. And then another lady comes on, who spoke Nepalese. Where getting ready to go in to the river and not to get knocked off but man is it scary! It takes about 30 seconds for the trainer to get the elephant to actually do the trick (the longest 30 seconds of my life) and where both so scared we practically jump off. Once in the river u have to get back n the elephant.




So what you do is grab on to its ears and step on its trunk and it lifts u up and u step on its head and the go right to the back. Artemis goes first and she falls off the first 3 times and then finally gets on. It doesn’t look too hard. I get it right on the first try. On the second try to stay on the elephant us both fall of the first time to. But we have one more go! So we step on the trunk (this time I go first) and there are six people crammed on the elephant. So it shakes and I don’t fall off!! I’m so excited I don’t even realize that it’s already started shaking a second time and then I fall off.

Well that’s all the elephant riding for today. So we go and grab some lunch and meet up with a couple we talked to yesterday we chat with them for a while and they say there going for an elephant ride tomorrow through the jungle. We wish them luck and chilax for the rest of the day.

The next day is our last day so we go and do another elephant bath and its much like the first time except this time there are about 5 people there and 5 elephants. We take the elephant we took the day before and this time I stay on for five shakes and then the trainer says to do a really big shake and I just can’t hold on.
More to come on Chitwan National Park
Caleb

Reflections on Khatmandu

Khatmandu
Cows and goats graze on the streets.
Dogs everywhere, sleeping peacefully on the side of roads, not moving for the frantic traffic.
Indian man follows me around the shopping square, he knows I want that little wooden chess set.
The mother rattles the bell for the blessings of the Hindu gods.
A mouse scurries through our apartment.
From the rooftop we see children playing, no shoes, drawing on the brick wall with chalk, one seven year old girl carries her year old sister around as she plays and draws.
Soupy spicy curry mixing with rice, using your right hand to pop it into your mouth.
Stuck in a traffic jam, sitting in a rickshaw, a narrow road, people are barely getting by the bottleneck halts all movement and then suddenly it is released.
Sitting on the second floor having breakfast, a merchant calls from the street, we think he is selling oranges, he holds up a large fish.
Buying art from a sweet Nepalese man, who serves us tea, talks of the art, bargains for the best price, he sells well.
Streets of dirt and rocks, children sit and play with plastic bags they have found.
Pigs chow in the river, on the river of garbage where a dead goat lies.
Bright coloured saris flow in the wind of dust.
Police hold bamboo canes, the army holds long rifles.
A place where Namaste means hello, good-bye, thank-you, no thank-you, I don’t speak Nepalese so I am going to say this all the time.
A city of rubble and seemingly mass confusion.
The scenery is lost from all the smog.
People coughing, choking, spitting, hoarking, Namaste they smile.
Khatmandu

Lianna

Khatmandu

Outside the door to our apartment at the Melungtse

We found a resting place in Khatmandu for the first number of days. I located a hotel on line, The Melungste Inn, which could accommodate us in a 2 bedroom suite, with living room and kitchen, like a small apartment. We had resolved to only stay at a place that we all felt comfortable in but when we arrived in our weary state we would have taken anything. Luckily the place was amazing. There was no Internet connection but there was a TV and it was away from the bustling centre of tourist town they call Thamel, so it was a place for rest and recuperation for all of us.

For the first few days the kids did not venture out at all. Mark and I explored the city centre, the Thamel area, while they rested at the apartment. We were in no hurry to get moving. Thamel is what they call the main tourist area. Once you enter the few streets that make up Thamel, all you see are tourists. People from all over the world. The streets are very narrow and on either side are shops after shops catering to tourists, hotels, restaurants, laundry services, Internet, travel agencies – anything a tourist would need or want.

Narrow Streets of Thamel area


Colorful Tuktuks waking for customers in Thamel


Bakery in Thamel - Mark checked them all out


Garbage pick-up (lots of it)
After 3 days of exploring Thamel and searching for the perfect accommodation, we had purchased some fabulous art, eaten some amazing curries and other dishes and we were all starting to feel rested however we had not yet seen much of the real Khatmandu.

Masks for sale in Thamel streets


One of the original pieces of art we bought


We had taken a taxi between the hotel and Thamel many times through the crowded streets of Khatmandu but it was usually through one of two routes we came to know well. Along with the food at the hotel being cooked fresh all the time (we realized you had to order at least an hour in advance because of this) we also discovered an incredible Tandoori Chicken restaurant 10 minute walk from the hotel. Amazingly it was called “Richmond Bakery and Café” and it specialized in Tandoori and roasted chicken. Huh? Anyway the first time we went there, out of Tandoori, so we had the Roast chicken. Amazing. The second time, out of Tandoori and Roast, so we had the curries and momos (little dumplings stuffed with delicious veggies with a fab sauce). We vowed to return one more time to try the Tandoori.

While in Nepal we arrived in the middle of a major New Years festival for Nepalians. It was Dewali, the festival of lights. Every day was a day of worship for something different. One day it was the blessings on the dogs, which there are many of all over the city. When Mark and I went out that morning, dogs were marked between the eyes with red paint and wore lays of small orange carnations. They sat proudly in front of their masters buildings. Another day was blessings on cows, blessings on children etc.

Blessings for the Dogs of Khatmandu


Orange strings of carnations adorne everywhere

Every night there were fireworks, more decorations of orange carnations on every store front and home for blessings of good fortune. In the evening strolling minstrels of an amateur but meaningful nature came to the hotel to play, celebrate and hopefully make a few dollars.

After spending about 4 nights at the Melungtse Inn (still not sure what that means) outside the core of the city located on what is called as the Ring Road, we moved into the city. Mark and I had searched through numerous hotels, trying to find something comfortable, affordable and central. What we found was that every room looked identical no matter the cost of the room. The differentiating feature which controlled the price of the room was how elaborate the lobby was. Of course we were most attracted to the open large traditionally decorated lobbies with adjoining garden areas for sitting in and reading but the rooms always showed to be just as unappealing as the hotels with lobbies with no ambiance but were much more expensive. We finally decided on a small hotel right on the main strip of restaurants, bars and stores. I think we were getting frustrated and making the decision to stay in this hotel was made out of desperation because when we returned the next day, I was quite surprised we had decided this location.

The next day we all packed up from our luxury apartment and headed for the city. Caleb was not completely well but feeling better and all of us were going through various stages of recuperation.

View from our balcony. Much care is taken with the wiring.

The first night at the downtown hotel, was a disaster for me. Across the balcony which was on the 3rd floor, in the opposite building, which was only a narrow street away of about 12 feet, a live band played rock music, windows open wide, patrons dancing and laughing. It was like having a full rock band in your livingroom. Luckily the bars closed down around 10:30pm so soon after that there was peace and quiet.


Chillin at a cool Thamel restaurant - The Himalayian

We stayed there two more nights, venturing out a bit at a time. The band continued to play every night and although I wanted to move, the kids and Mark seemed to enjoy the noises, so I was voted out. Caleb was weak the first few days so only left the hotel for meals. Artemis had a puking session one night, Mark was constantly coughing and feeling weak and I (as well as Mark) had developed the cursed “hoarkers spit”. To explain – we were first introduced to this in China, people spitting all the time (hoarking and then spitting on the streets, in the restaurants, everywhere). It was disgusting. But one has to get use to it eventually or else be grossed out all the time. People in Tibet continued this tradition and then also in Nepal. By the time we reached Nepal Mark and I were doing the same, and this was out of necessity. One could not help it. Was it the air, the food, the altitude? I am not sure. It was disgusting but uncontrollable. So we joined in.


Walking around Thamel

After many attempts we finally met up with my cousin, Stephan, from Edmonton. We first bumped into him on the streets of Thamel and then we met up for dinner that evening.

Lianna, Stephan (blondie) and his new friend from Israel

We had one of the most expensive dinners to date. It was delicious but where pizza is extremely cheap in Vancouver, in Khatmandu it seems to be one of the more expensive items. Stephan was leaving for a 10 day trek the next day so we chatted about all the great adventures we had had so far. The kids didn’t join for the dinner that night, still trying to get their health back so preferred to stay in the hotel room watching a movie.

We spent much of our time in Thamel the next few days, waiting for Caleb to get his energy back. At this point we were ready to find somewhere else in Nepal where the air would be cleaner. We decided to venture to Chitwan National Park. In the morning we booked a car and driver (we decided to go luxuriously instead of the local bus as we were all still not fully recuperated) for the next day. Finally that afternoon when we were all feeling somewhat energetic we decided to walk to the famous Monkey Temple. A helpful gent, from the shop we booked our drive out of Khatmandu, gave us hand written instructions on how to walk there from Thamel.

Caleb and Artemis riding in a Tuktuk

What a shock we were in for. Leaving the district of Thamal, into the area below the Monkey Temple really threw us into a part of Khatmandu that seemed to be truly forgotten. Garbage littered the streets in piles, streets were not much more than rubble in some areas, people lived in small huts on the side of the road where they washed in the open stream of water, cooked, played. Mothers with children passed us dressed in tattered saris, children with no shoes, clinging to their mothers’ threads. This was the most impoverished areas we had seen yet. The river we crossed below the Monkey temple took our breaths away as we looked at the shore caked with garbage and the blackened water streaming with litter of all kinds. A group of pigs were eating garbage on one shore while a dead goat floated near and a group of children played on the other shore, picking up things they found littering the edge. I would not have been surprised to see a dead body float by.

The monkey temple was a steep walk up of cement stairs. Monkeys lived and wandered freely as impoverished vendors pressed tourists to buy their wares or give them money.



Climbing up to the Monkey Temple, monkeys everywhere

The top of the temple provided an amazing view of the city, what you could see of the city through the thick haze of smog. We returned to our hotel by taxi exhausted by the whole afternoon and ready to go to the forest.

The next morning, our car picked us up outside the hotel. A young nice looking Thai man was our driver. His English was very good and we learned much about the country from him as we made our way out of Khatmandus’ streets of rubble and city of mass confusion to the small clean, bicycle and elephant ridden village of Sauri beside Chitwan National Park.

Lianna

Arrival in Nepal - October 26

Artemis looking over the canyon at the border crossing

The Tibetian border did not open until 10am and we were only about 5 km away however we still arose early as we were told there will be a line-up and a rush to get through.


Line-up of trucks goes on forever

After breakfast our driver drove us down the crowded canyon about 4 km. but then had to dump us out as there was traffic blocking the way up and down and he had no choice but to turn around before getting completely stuck. Artune, our guide walked with us to the Tibetian border crossing where many other tourists and guides waited for the doors to open.

While waiting Mark struck up a conversation with an older man who suddenly appeared on his mountain bike.

He was saddled up with all the necessary gear and we could hardly believe that he had ventured on that crazy canyon road by bike. We found out that he had not only traversed from Lhasa but from Germany, he had biked his way through up to Mongolia, down through China, into Tibet and was now heading into Nepal. He seemed unfazed by his adventure but the rest of the tourists and us were amazed.

The border finally opened at 10:20 (the Chinese officials informed the anxiously waiting groups that they had complete some cleaning before opening the doors). It was incredible to us that a border crossing is not open 24 hours. Trucks parked along the roadway in both directions of the border have to sometimes wait sometime 2-3 days or more before actually getting through.

Luckily for us we had a very aggressive and well organized guide. She managed to push us up to the front and get us through with little problem. We bid her good-bye at that point, and turned to the flock of young men waiting to assist all the confused tourists to the Nepalese border and beyond.

We were convinced by one young fellow who then led us to the Nepalese border to obtain our Visas. Luckily we had brought along a number of passport photos which we presented and were quickly issued entry. At the point we were informed that we would have to walk 2km to where the taxi was located. It was amazing the degree of recovery once at this lower altitude and although we were not at our healthiest we all managed to strap into back pack mode and proceed down the windy steep road.






Once we were walking we realized why walking was the only choice. Trucks were parked on every inch of the roadway blocking all traffic completely. We had to weave our way between trucks and people along the narrow canyon roadway. We tried to avoid having to walk anywhere on the edge of the canyon but at one point when we came to a waterfall flowing over the roadway into the canyon at least at ankle depth and we were presented with a rickety bridge crossing, there was not much choice.
I choose walking through the water. The others ventured across the bridge quickly crossing and not looking below at the daunting 30m or so drop.


Weaving between the trucks

It was amazing to see people living on the steep edges of the canyon who serviced the truckers and tourists. Living a mountain goat like existence these people had small stores fronts jutting out into the side of the road while their living quarters dangled over the edge of the cliff on stilts.


At one point we saw three could not have been more than 2 year old sitting alone about a foot from the edge of this canyon drop playing. I could barely look. Although being the cautious western that I am I looked around for parents or for any concerned locals. Not a one.

The young man escorting us dashed up ahead as soon as he was able to get any opening, he rode a motorbike. Then he would suddenly appear again, retrieve one of our backpacks and head back down. At one point Caleb disappeared down the hill on the back of the motorbike and then Artemis. That was definitely a hi light for them. I on the other hand had to quickly release any fears and just go with the flow.



There are some accidents I guess

We arrived to a small 4 door car boasting as our taxi. We and our four bags all squeezed in and headed towards Khatmandu. The road in Nepal was somewhat better, meaning paved in most areas. I think after the Tibet road experience not much will come close. The ride was long twisting through the mountainside. We could see Tibet as one side of the canyon is Tibet and the other Nepal.


Buying snacks along the way

We stopped for our first Dal Bhat meal at a roadside restaurant. Dal Bhat is a large tray of an assortment of curries either Vegie or Meat. We opted for veggie. With your dollop of rice and using your right hand, you scoop up the curries and plop them into your mouth. Dal Bhat is one price, eat all you want. The continually return with refills of any of the curries or rice. Washing this down with beer we were totally satisfied. Caleb and Artemis try and eat anything now and when the food is good, eat a lot of it.

We arrived in Khatmandu mid afternoon. Entering the city we were struck with chaotic traffic, cows and goats wandering along the roadsides, people trudging through the dusty roads in flip flops and the incessant noise of honking. The Nepalese people are unique. They are a mixture of Indian, Tibetian and Chinese. Some people look obviously Indian or Chinese or Tibetian while many others are mixtures of all three.
Lianna

On the Road to Nepal - Part 4

Loading up in our Toyota for the trip to Nepal


Fueling up at the local Tibetian gas station

The car is a cream Toyota Land Cruiser, pretty much identical to every other Land Cruiser in Lhasa, of which there were plenty.
We loaded up, Lianna was moderately better with the drugs, and happy to be leaving for lower elevation, despite the fact that it will take us 2 days to get there.
The land cruiser is comfortable: Mark and driver up front, then Lianna and either Artemis or Caleb, and then the guide. The last kid would be in the way back, where there was s bench and our baggage. Quie fun and comfy, especially since there were no seatbelts.

We were driking water like crazy which meant pissing like crazy. Every half hour at the very least, and usually more like 3 times an hour. On the first pee stop just out of the city of Lhasa, there were two ladies with blankets laid out and cool stuff for sale, so we bought some, and so it went. We drove a long day though, and did not arrive in Shigatse until 6-ish. Our hotel was ample, but compared to the previous one, which was stunning, it was a let down.


Stopping for lunch at a roadside restaurant



Artune(our guide) and the driver taking a break while we take a pee

For dinner went to a good local place that spoke English, was clean and had a menu with variety. We had curries and rice. After we ordered, a couple of white guys began singing happy birthday. We chirpped in. He offered us some of the cake, which we kindly accepted, as it looked great. There was a cherry tomato on the top of it too!

Then back to the hotel and early bed for an early rise, as we had a rough day ahead -luckily, we did not know how rough. Hehehehehehe.

Friday,
Up early and breakfast at hotel at 8:00 a.m. Fresh fried eggs, fried potatoes for the first time in a long time, some toast, and milky coffee. Guides eat with us, and we are on the way by 8:30 a.m.

The road starts off easilty enough, paved and flat. Most of Tibet has been like this: paved flat roads solidly placed in a large sweeping valley. The landscape is grey/brown; buildings come right up from the earth, as they are made of the same clay as the ground, with farmers using the earth to make bricks for their houses. So wherever there is a little village, the houses match the colour of the earth.





We pass farming communities in the middle of nowhere, far far far from each other, and from any city or town. Some have electrical wires; many use these funky tractors which are a cross between a sewing machine and a hot-rod lawn mower. With these they climb the steepest road, pulling a trailer usually packed with items and people. I don't know how they get supplies, but my hunch is a supply truck must service this road, as it's the only road, and all of the towns we can see are off of it.



On the way we pass:
-Mt Everest! We can see it perfectly from the road at multiple points. It is stunning as it rises above even the surrounding stunning mountains.


-herds of sheep, goats, yaks and cows


-nomadic people packing their yaks and moving on


-farmers beating their wheat crop, separating the wheat from the chaff
-road crews living on the edge of the road, working by hand, without the use of any type of machine
-some cars also going between Nepal and Tibet, transport trucks, small towns with many people.




We stop for lunch at a guest house at the end of some small town. The guest house is basic, but the restaurant cozy, with other westerners and their guides. There is a large dung fire in the middle of the room heating water and heating the room. Around the edges are comfy sofas covered in colourful thick blankets, and the ceiling is painted.


These westerners are not as friendly as others - usually we start talking immediately, but one group is Russian, and they are stand-offish, and the other is French; it takes them a while to warm up but they eventually do - one guy is cursing the fact that he has not received his food while others eat. I respond to him in French, and he makes his way over and we chat in English, talking about Nepal and Kathmandu. We end up meeting this guy over and over, and enjoy their company.

We have some sheep bones and cut the meet away with a knife - this is an appetizer, given to anyone. We have some yak meat and tatoes, as per usual. As we're eating a large group of Slavs from Slovenia show up. They are staying in the guest house, with their outdoor toilet comprised of a slit in the concrete and a pile of shit below - and not too far below either. There is a little metal half-door. That is the only toilet.

Artemis and Caleb befriend a kitten. The owner tells her she can take it home if she wants. She almost does!




Going through a pass over 5000m, its cold!

We take some photos of Everest and surrounding mountains, get some shots of some local kids, and are on our way. The guide tells us we can't have someone in the back, as they check around here - although there won't be any army checks like the previous day. She also says we have 108 Kms of bumpy road ahead - and she wasn't kidding.

Our driver wears white gloves no matter what

The road immediately turns to gravel. This goes on for hours. We go over two passes, each over 5,000 metres, go through one river; take a short cut down a mountain, as the winding road seems too long and finally we get to a town. The town is built on a sheer cliff which plunges probably 1000 metres straight down. There is one small road, and the houses are situated on it, with most of their structure on the cliff. One wrong move off the road, and you are gone over. The road is busy and full, with many people walking around. Kids play by the cliff, nonchalantly sitting on the edge. It's a part of life for them, and they think nothing of it. We, on the other hand, are terrified. And so begins the final 30 Kms to the border town.

The road begins as a windy cliff road, but nicely paved, and compared to what we've been driving through, it's first class, despite the limitless drops and chasms. We wind our way merrily along until the road turns back to gravel. And then we reach an army checkpoint. At this stage we are in much lower elevation. The mountains have gone from grey/brown to lush green, with waterfalls everywhere. The road is in good repair, with spots being built and others being fixed, but it has been good - until the check point.

It's an army checkpoint and our guide and driver go out and come back some minutes later. They inform us that the road may be closed and we may have to drive to a point where the bridge is out, and then walk 5 Kms to pick up another Land Cruiser on the other side (and its starting to get dark outside). We all sorta look at each other, hoping we did not hear what we just heard, and hoping it was not true, because once we pass that military check point, all hell breaks loose!!

The road goes from great, to, well an Indianna Jones adventure ride in Disneyland, with it falling apart as you drive it, and obstacles coming at you. The road is still extremely high, extremely narrow and extremely winding, with many workers on the edges. Some have pitched tents hanging over the road, and that's where they live. Others are heaving and pouring and shoveling and moving stuff. The road is cramped. It's falling apart as quickly as they can build it, with avalanches a standard obstacle. Huge transport trucks and dump trucks are on the road as well.

Two dump trucks make their way around a corner, and we can see bamboo holding up the road they are driving on, with nothing else below but a bottomless drop. We all hope the driver will let them go over that part before going on ourselves, but no go. He's right there with them. There's a huge waterfall which has been hitting the road, wearing it away. So in response the Chinese have built a little roof, trying to divert the water off the highway. Of course the road is still soaked and muddy, with erosion making it even more narrow than other parts. We go through it and our driver stops right in the middle of the muck. He revves the engine, and then gives it hard, and we claw our way out of the muddy pass, looking at the broken pillars which had been holding up the waterfall roof, but which have been replaced with bamboo sticks.

We continue our drive, passing hundreds of trucks parked on the side of the road. At one point we get to a single lane area, because they have dumped piles of dirt along one of the lanes. We meet another van going the other way. No one wants to give way. Our driver tries to pull in among the mounds of dirt which take up the other lane. He basically gets stuck. As we're doing this a herd of goats passes us by, and we will meet them again down the road.


As our driver tries to get unstuck and out of the dirt piles, other trucks and cars start to line up behind us. At one point a Chinese official in his landcruiser and 3 other accompanying cars comes down, and basically tells the truck facing us to move, which he does. At this point we are unstuck, move ahead and let the convey of 4 Chinese official SUVs go speeding at full speed down the road.

We follow them, honking our way through the goat herd, and then wending our way down down down the mountainside, over avalanche piles, through streams, around narrow corners without guard rails and any visible bottom, until nightfall, when we arrive at another one of these crazy towns that is built on the cliff of the pass.


It's a strange border town, with trucks parked along with side, and with single lane traffic only, there are people walking around, restaurants, hotels and shops. We get to a grungy hotel, which cost almost as much as our 5 star gem in Lhasa, and head down the road to eat. We pass an open gate between two buildings and I look through: it's a straight drop down, with the lower part of the town visible way way down below. No one is hungry. It's 9 p.m., we are the only ones in this weird restaurant. Artemis orders a pepper steak!!!! We take a chance on a tomato an cheese pizza. Both end up horrible. We head back to the room and try to sleep. We have only a 13 Km ride to the border, which is a nice thought.

Artemis won't sleep in her room with Caleb because of 2 huge spiders I have to kill. She sleeps with Lianna in our room. I cannot sleep because of the spiders. L cannot sleep thinking about the fact that our building is on a cliff. When I get up in the night, my jaw is so tense, it's been clenched so hard, I fear I may break it.

Not one shower in Tibet for Mark, Artemis, Caleb!! Lianna took one.
Mark