Travel Update - April 28

APRIL
April 2-14 - Rome, Italy
April 14-25 - drove to Tuscany, Italy and stayed in Secciano
April 26-28 - Venice (its flooding today!)

Sirens have been going off in Venice because of the high tide. The community is prepared with raised walkways on the main streets and clearing floors of hotels and stores. We are safely on the second floor.

More to come.
Lianna

Israel (2) Feb 28 - March 18

Israel
Gissa

Going to Israel was a life long dream. Ever since I was in my 20’s I had wanted to go to Israel but something always held me back – politics and fear of not only being killed but more importantly fear of never wanting to leave.

Now I know that my fear of not wanting to leave was valid. I LOVED being in Israel. I loved to be able to say Shabbat Shalom to the bus driver. I loved the way the car rental agent took one look at Steve and I as were dripping wet from the sudden down pouring of torrential rain – (in a sing song intonation) “what are you doing here on a day like this- Go back to your hotel, order room service and go back to bed – forget about the car.”

Narrow street in Jerusalam Caleb and I

I LOVED being there with Steve, Mark, Lianna, Caleb, & Artemis. Like the country, especially Jerusalem, my experience was multi layered and intertwined with the fact that I we were there together. Even as I write this missive tears well up in my heart as it overflows with love and joy.

Walking the streets of Jerusalem

I LOVED the fact that hummus was served everywhere all the time for breakfast lunch, dinner and if you got a yen you could always have a little hummus snack. We never seemed to tire of it even when we would all say Nah no more hummus, someone would buy some and we would all dig in hungrily.

Having a lunch in Jerusalem

I LOVED that on Friday the stores closed at 300P.M. and that the workweek is from Sunday to Thursday. The weekend is Friday and Saturday.

I LOVED running around in Jerusalem’s huge central market hours before the Friday Sabbath sunset with toute la gang.

We had all just come out of the incredibly intense visit to the Holocaust Museum feeling very somber. As the bus approached the market, we jumped off the bus and began buying the most delicious foods that were prepared especially for the Sabbath. The plan was to go to the Wailing Wall for Sabbath and then return to our hotel rooms and eat our incredible feast…

The market was filled with people madly buying up all kinds of goodies – prepared or not. There was even a wine stall where we had a taste before buying. The excitement kept building as sunset was approaching… it was palpable.

All we were missing were candles – and as Mark had just finished uttering that all we need is a Lubavicha to come and give us some - a young Lubavich girl approached with our candles. Now we’re ready.

When we arrived at the Wall, it seemed fairly quiet. Steve, Mark & Caleb went on the men’s side and Artemis and I went on the tiny women’s side. Lianna had opted to remain in the main square. After addressing the Wall, Artemis and I stood on chairs to peek over the wall dividing the women from the men. We stayed there till we were told to get down that it was the Sabbath after all.

Now we were all in the square with Lianna and we thought that we had missed IT. But we lingered - we couldn’t leave. After a short while the prayer sections were filling with men and women all dressed up for Friday night. Again you could feel the building of something in the air – before we realized it the square was filled with people singing and dancing. We finally returned to our hotel and lit candles and had the most incredible feast – it was a powerful time. Then we played a game of Rich Person, Poor Person. A good time was had by all.

I LOVED that after Shabbat ( Saturday evening) even though the work week starts on Sunday the whole of the new city in Jerusalem came alive at 9:00 pm. The stores as well as the restaurants opened and the town square was filled with people of all ages and all degrees of religiosity, laughing, singing, dancing and always noshing.

I LOVED that the whole country was celebrating Purim for a whole week – it was carnival time. Here in North America it is a one-day innocuous holiday for the Jewish Diaspora.

All of us in the streets of Zefat

Of course I have not written about the armed guards, the security checks, the ever-present tension that simply IS. Nor have I written about our little adventures driving through the West Bank at times not knowing if we were on the Israeli side or the Palestinian side. Nor of the sight of the wall being built to separate these two sides, nor of the solitary Jewish home surrounded by barbed wire in Jerusalem cause it is situated on the edge of the Muslim & Jewish quarters. No I haven’t done so because that must not take away from the wonderfulness of Israel.

Armed guards walking the streets of Jerusalem

Neither have I written about Tsefat – the place where the Kabala is alive and well and where everyone seems to have come from Montreal – Cote St. Luc to be exact. I could go on and on as our adventures were many and varied. Every day there was a new high. Everyday, I had tears of joy and love in my heart. Everyday I was so happy to be in Israel with all of us.

Zefat

Synague entry in Zefat

Seeing the comings and goings of all the many civilizations, somehow made me feel lighter and joyous – the continuity of life. For me, Israel was transformative, redemptive and inspiring. Even though it was my first visit to Israel, it felt like a re-turning, a re-membering. Now that I have finally made my way there – I know that I will be back.

Gissa

Israel (Feb 28-March 18)

I am in Jerusalem!
ISRAEL
Mark

Israel has been one of the most incredible parts of our trip yet. It was great being picked up at the airport! A rarity for us, as we usually have to walk by all the signs and excited family members waiting for others. This time Steve and Gissa were there, waiting with a minivan for the six of us and all our stuff. We headed south, as the weather was quite cold and rainy up north. Israel is a tiny country, some 500 Kms long! But the weather and terrain change magically before one's eyes, even in the small distance.

It was the first time we had to wear our "warm" gear. I put on one of my two pairs of 3/4 length pants, only to find business cards from Nepal in the pockets - the last time I'd worn them was in November! We all got out our new scarves, which we purchased in India, and put on any piece of warm clothing we had, as it was 15 degrees!

Dead Sea View of the shoreline

The drive south was strange, as there was hardly anyone on the road. Being Shabbat, everything was closed. The landscape was dry and rocky. We saw a wall which we thought might be "the" wall, and which we later found out was indeed the West Bank wall, but there are no signs along the way. The Dead Sea was our destination, about 120 Kms. south of Tel Aviv, where we landed. The roads were all beautiful and new, traffic light, and we made good time.

You descend to the Dead Sea, as it lies 417 metres below sea level. It is the lowest point on earth. There was a sign marking sea level, and some marking the depth below sea level as we drove. And then suddenly a body of water appeared on our left, without a big sign pointing and flashing: Dead Sea, Dead Sea. It was strangely quiet and empty. No hotels or tourist malls; no boat rentals or vacation spots. Nothing really, but signs warning you about swimming being prohibited in this area. We marvelled at the landscape, and looked at Jordon on the other side of the water.

Walking next to the Dead Sea

There are exactly two choices of accommodation at the Dead Sea: the Hostel, and the Kibbutz. The hostel was nice, but expensive. The Kibbutz was nice and expensive as well, but they threw in a free spa entrance, as well as dinner and breakfast, so we stayed there. In India some days before we had splashed out and rented three rooms, one for L and I and one for each of the kids. It was the first time they wanted a room of their own, and Jaiselmer was a good place to do it. It cost around 80 bucks CDN for the three rooms. At Ein Geddy, the Kibbutz, it cost us 380 dollars a night!! We were in shock.

Oasis in Ein Getti

Thankfully the rooms were nice, and the food INCREDIBLE! And it wasn't just because we'd been eating vegetarian Indian food for 6 weeks either, although I'm sure that contributed to our enjoyment of it. Even G & S loved the food. There were all manner of meats and fish and chicken and veggies and salads and breads and desserts for dinner; and for breakfast there were more incredible cheeses and smoked fish, salads and teas and yogurts and fruit. All of it all-you-can-eat.

The next day we went to the spa. It was cold and grey out, but we were determined to go into the Dead Sea. There were few people at the spa, which was large, with mineral baths inside, and mud baths and spring-heated showers outside, as well as the Dead Sea of course. When it was first built the spa was on the shores of the Dead Sea. Now it is a good 7 or 8 minute walk from the shore, as the water has receded at least 3 or 4 hundred metres in 20 years! As you walk down there are sign posts showing the shore levels at various years. It really will be gone within 50 years or so, nothing there but a little puddle.

Walk down to the Dead Sea swimming area

The spa provided big warm comfy bathrobes, and we all walked down to the the water bundled up. The shore has become very hard and prickly, as the salt and minerals have hardened, leaving a white base which you walk on. It can be quite sharp and very slippery, so we walked in slowly and painfully. You are also not supposed to put your face in the water, and even swallowing one drop can be dangerous and you are supposed to report it to the lifeguard immediately.

We all stepped gingerly into the cold water, finally allowing ourselves to drop right in, only to find that we floated, just like they say! We all sat propped up, feet out, upper body out, unable to sink. We even sat cross-legged without problem. We were pretty much alone, except for a couple of Spanish people. After our dunk we went up to the mud baths and slathered cold wet mud all over ourselves, and listened to the Spaniards, who told us we had to wait for the mud to dry. The sun made an appearance right on cue, and we stood around trying to dry the mud before freezing to death. Of course no one had the camera. Rinsing was great, as the water was hot spring water, a bit stinky, but salubrious I'm certain.

Relaxed and rejuvinated, we all went back to the hotel to wait for dinner. A flash flood had occurred from some rain, and we watched as the water flooded over the road and rushed to the Dead Sea. The water can come from as far away as Jerusalem!

The next day we left for that city, but stopped by Masada for a quick hike to the top of that mountain. It's not a mountain, but a pinnacle with a flat top. Here a group of 600 Jewish settlers had killed themselves rather than bow to Roman rule some 2,000 years ago. The site has been excavated (and is still being excavated) and the displays were fascinating, with some walls still having the original Roman paint!

Old Marble wall remains in Masada

The hike up was along a winding switchback, and took a good hour or so. You can take a fanicular, but we walked - even my 69 year old mother, there and back! We had delicious falafal afterward, and began our addiction to humous somewhere around this point.

Making it to the top of Masada

At the top of Masada

As Canadians driving around Israel is like a commute. Jerusalem was only 120 or so Kms. north. We arrived in the late evening, and after checking out an expensive hotel, opted to go to the old city, which seemed to elude us as we drove in. After all, it's hard to spot a 3,000 year-old walled city! We eventually did find it, and we eventually did find a hotel through the winding streets of Old Jerusalem. L and I set out on a scouting mission as the others waited in the car. We got to the Lutheran Guest House by asking every 10 metres or so. It is a beautiful building which has been lovingly restored. Once there, we found our way back to the car, and then had to circle through the Old City three times (it's one way) to find a parking spot! After we found one we had to hike about a kilometre to the Guest House, at night, through the narrow winding alleys. It was all quite fun, and the Armenian Tavern proved a great place to have a bite to eat once we had settled in.

Shopping in Muslim Quarter

Jerusalem was absolutely incredible. We all just loved it and had a really magical time there. It's by far the most powerful city I've been to, with Judaism, Christianity and Islam all laying claim to it. Ancient history, biblical legend, and modern history - still being played out - all mix together into a disorienting swirl of famous stories and long-lost ancestral pasts, both actual and mythical. Really, at the end of a day of touring the Old City, one is left with the certainty that there is no one truth, with fact on one side and the real story on the other. They are all stories - including the ones we generally agree upon to be "true" - and we are constantly rewriting them all.

Outside Jewish Quarter

We spent alot of time walking through the ancient, narrow, cobble-stoned streets of Old Jerusalem, moving from one quarter to the other, usually unaware of the change. Old Jerusalem is broken up into Muslim, Jewish, Christian and Armenian quarters. I know, I walked around for 2 weeks saying the same thing: "How did the Armenians get their own quarter?" The answer: they got in early and held tight to this day.

Jewish Quarter

But after two 3 hour walking tours through the Old City with our amazing guide Davr, we began to undertand the city, it`s history and people a little bit more. Our second tour was filled with incredible experiences - even Davr commented: "You guys are getting everything today!" It began at King David's tomb - a very holy spot for Jews, which is situated right underneath the room where Christ supposedly had his last supper, which is obviously significant for Christians. When we arrived in the last supper room there was a group of pilgrims from Eastern Europe (there were goups of pilgrims moving around all over Jerusalem all day from all over the world) who began chanting this beautiful, ancient Gregorian chant which echoed throughout the room and mystified everyone present.

King David statue with Dvir in foreground

Then, while waiting in the queue to get onto the Temple Mount, we heard drums beating and saw people singing and dancing. We were suddenly bombarded - by candy! A boy was having his Bar Mitzvah and they were celebrating. Then our guide got verbally accosted by another Israeli guide because he worked for this tour company. After that was settled by me and another guy from BC telling the other guide to take it off-line (pun intended), and that this was not the time and place to discuss union politics, a group of Israeli protesters tried to get onto the Temple Mount to decry the fact that this is where the promised Third Temple is going to be, and that they want to start building it now, and not wait any longer for God to do it. But the Israeli police were having nothing to do with it, and they would not let them through.

Jewish group trying to get into the Temple at the Mount

Davir speaking at the Temple Mount - Guards in the background

The Temple Mount is the place where the first two Jewish temples were built, and is now a Muslim area, with the Dome of the Mount open only to Muslims, and a Mosque just in front of it. The whole area is sealed off to non-Muslims except for certain times in the morning and afternoon.

Temple Mount in Muslim Quarter

We got onto the Temple Mount without problem, and then made our way to a far exit. Here, deep in the Muslim quarter, some of the retaining wall, which held the first and second temples, is exposed. Standing there were a group of a dozen or so secular Jewish people (in other words not Orthodox), with one of them telling a story of how he had come to this spot when he was younger and asked for a sign, which he received in the form of a bird coming onto his shoulder, and then this was followed by some beautiful and very heartfelt singing by the group, which we later found out was a song asking for the third temple to be built - right where the holy Muslim mosque and Dome of the Rock are at this moment! The Dome of the Rock is a large building with a solid gold dome which houses a sacred rock, or exposed portion of bedrock. At this spot it is believed, by the Jews and Muslims, that Abraham had tied his only son and was to execute him, AND it is the spot where Muslims also believe Mohamed lifted off to heaven when he died!

Cross in Christian Quarter

Church of the Holy Seplicre-Steve coming into main hall

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, built on the spot where Christ was said to have been crucified, is just a few minutes from this spot: it is a large and ancient church, with a mixture of extreme ornate areas and a room where there is a large half-burnt throne-like chair sitting by a charred wall. Because no one Christian group or sect can lay claim to this holy church (although they all try, with a fist-fight recently breaking out between two priests!), the keys to it are actually held by Muslims, and have been for the past 150 years! The chair still sits there charred after a fire as no one can agree on who is to repair or what is to be done with it.

Old Chair in disrepair

There are pilgrims here who have travelled thousands of kilometres and lined up to touch the spot on the bedrock where Christ's cross was placed, and some feet away there is a stone slab where it is said he was lain after being taken down, and there are people there kneeling, kissing the stone and weeping. Davr told us the slab has had to be replaced, as so many people have chipped off pieces of it. There are ancient crosses from the Crusaders chiselled into the walls marking their presence here (a type of ancient graffiti); there are small groups of people in tiny ancient carved out caves and alcoves chanting and reading from prayer books. It is all quite moving, regardless of ones beliefs. Everything is so present there, it feels as if history is alive.

Crosses carved by pilgrims

There is something called "The Jerusalemn Syndrone", and apparently almost every week someone gets the idea that s/he is some holy figure, usually Christ returned. At first we laughed when we heard about it, but after touring Jerusalem, it is easy to see how this can happen!

In Israel the workweek is centred around the Jewish sabbath, which is Saturday, and which begins on Friday night at sundown. We wanted to witness the Western Wall, the most holy site for Jews, on Friday night, to see what is done for Shabbat, but first we had to get our shopping done as all the stores are closed on Saturday! We had planned on having a Shabbat together on Friday night - our only one in Israel, and so we spent the last hour or two of store opening hours rushing through the local Jerusalem food market, buying everything for a huge Shabbat feast. The energy at the market was frenetic, as hawkers screamed things in Hebrew and people rushed through, buying last-minute items before everything closed up for the next day and a half. As we walked around we said "Shabbat Shalom" to people, which was really fun. It was actually quite enjoyable walking around on Saturday and having all the stores closed. I remember when it was like that in Canada, on Sunday, and I had fond memories of the enforced quietness. I think we lost something in our pursuit of the freedom to shop... ALL THE TIME.

Sweets at the market

It was the first time we self-catered since Japan, where we often went to the local supermarket to buy fantastic Japanese delicacies and eat them at Satomi's house. Self-catering is just not an option in SE Asia, but in Israel it was fantastic: fresh fruits and veggies galore, great cheeses, olives, breads, bbqued chickens, marinated and smoked fish, and of course humous! We had become addicted to humous, and craved it three times a day! As we dashed about getting our dinner ready, I began looking for Shabbat candles. I said to my mother: "What we need is one of those Labovitch people to come and give us some free candles." A few minutes later I left a store without any luck finding candles. I noticed the gang across the street waiving something in the air. When I got there sure enough they had the candles, and the Labovitch girl had given them to us for free! We ditched our feast at the hotel and high-tailed it to the Wall, as sunset for lighting candles was 5:05, and it was already 4:30.

Walking in the Market in Jerusalem

When we finally made it through the metal detectors and by the armed guards who are there 24/7, as the Wall is open 24/7, there was not much action, and we figured we'd missed the main goings-on for Shabbat. Because the Wall is run by Orthodox Jews, it is split up into two sections: one for men and one for women. They are not two equal sections either, with the men's being huge, and the women's tiny and cramped. And so we split up, with Steve, Caleb and I heading to the men's section, which is separated by a little fence from the women's.

The Western Wall- Men on Left and Women on Right

But as we waited, more and more people began showing up, rearranging the chairs and tables in front of the wall, and one by one they began dovening (praying), standing by the wall bending back and forth nodding at the Wall. We remembered that men do not light the Friday night candles, women do, as these guys were in no rush to make it home for the candle-lighting deadline. More men arrived, with each different Orthodox sect battling it out with the other for the freakiest hats. There were many Western and secular men there too, as well as tourists from India and Japan and all over the world. It was incredible to see all these people coming to this area to pray. It was great to be there together with Steve and Caleb, sharing the experience. A little distance from the wall there was a huge circle of women who were singing and dancing in celebration, and next to them a group of secular men also singing and celebrating. Other people walked arm-in-arm singing and dancing together. It was such a wonderful scene, with everyone being drawn to this powerful area, despite everything!

Said Jesus placed his hand here when stopping to brace himself with the heavy cross on his back

That is the strange thing about Israel: if you did not watch the news it would be hard to know there was any trouble there at all. The army was not nearly as present as I had anticipated. I thought there would be jeeps and patrols everywhere, driving up and down, with bunkers on the street corners, etc. But no such thing. There were spots of army presence, like a tank maneouvre we'd seen in the Golan Heights, and Jerusalem has armed police and army throughout the winding streets, but for the most part it is all very discrete and hidden. Life is quite normal. Israel is also tiny. Teensy tiny small! Which makes the situation that much sadder, as you can't help but wonder why they cannot have this tiny little piece of land and be left to live in peace.

Peace Grafitti on a wall in Jerusalem

We left Jerusalem and headed up north, to see the Sea of Galillee, and to visit the town of Zefat - renowned for it's Kabalistic studies. Again we arrived at night in the dark without a clue where we were supposed to go. We had the name of a hotel from Lonely Planet, so we stopped and asked a cabbie where it was. He told us the hotel was closed - and had been for years. Then he told us of another good and inexpensive hotel. He took out a small piece of paper and pen and drew us a map, as he spoke no English. He explained as he drew a short line, followed by a curve, followed by another straight line and another curve which was followed by a line which he then kept drawing all the way across the table - about 10 inches off the paper! He did this twice, just to be sure we understood. Steve and I headed back to the car. Everyone asked where we were supposed to go, and we said, "No clue." We showed them the map and we all laughed our heads off. Eventually we found the hotel we were looking for, which ended up to be the same hotel at the end of the table, which ended up to be a wonderful place run by a guy named Shlomo - how could it be bad?

Hotel in Zefat

Owner of the hotel - Shlomo

Our first night in Zefat was quiet and cold, and the Kabbala was alive, as I had my most amazing out of body experience yet, becoming completely conscious in my dream and eventually lifting up and flying. Zefat is a tiny town with many Orthodox Jews. It was fun shopping in the little market, as these usually very insular people made small but meaningful gestures to reach out to us, curious about these strange folks in their town. One man picked up a bottle of wine we were purchasing, looked at it and put it down and commented it on it. We then talked to him for a while. Others made similar gestures to evoke conversation. It was quite strange being in a Jewish town, but feeling like we were in another culture, which we were.

Streets of Zefat

Purim feast at our little hotel in Zefat

Finding a playground in Zefat

Zefat is also known as an artistic centre, and Gissa and Steve ended up buying a gorgeous painting of a fiddler on a roof! It just so happened that the painter lives in Montreal and only sells his art at this gallery in Zefat!

Fiddler on the Roof Painting

From Zefat we went to Tel Aviv, which is the fast-paced secular part of Israel. There people fill the bars and restaurants until 4 or 5 in the morning, as I found out one night when roaming through the streets until 4 a.m! I ended up eating fantastic pizza at 3:30 a.m. while watching the goings-on in the bars and the street around me. All very fun.

I drove Gissa and Steve to the airport from Tel Aviv. It had been a great time with them. We had not travelled with anyone other than Caleb's friend Jesse, who met us in India, and Israel had been a very very enjoyable time for all of us.

The next day we drove down to Eilat, the southernmost tip of Israel, as we were going to Dahab, a small seaside town on the Red Sea in Egypt. This part of the Red Sea has Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia all within a few Kilmotres of each other! From Eilat we took a taxi, and in 4 minutes were at the border.

Border to Egypt

We walked about 100 metres and were in Egypt, where dark-skinned men walked around in neck to ankle robes with scarves on their heads drinking tea and smoking sheesha. We had been travelling hard for some 7 or 8 weeks, hardly staying in a place for more than one or two nights and were all very tired. We ended up staying in Dahab 15 days, and did very little, if nothing, many of those days. But that is a different blog entry.

Mark

Rajastan, India (Feb.13-28)

JAIPUR

After the long overnight train, we were in need of a nice place to crash and thanks to information from our English friend Elphy, we headed straight for the recommended hotel. It was lovely with a gorgeous view from the rooftop restaurant (Sunder Palace is the name).

For our two days in Jaipur we hired a van to take us to all the sites. Jaipur is known as “The Pink City” although there is little pink left in the city. Some sides of the older building have remnants of pink.

Henna outside the temple

Artemis Henna complete

My high lights were the delicious food. Jaipur is quite spread out from site to site so without a doubt, having the van and guide escort us around was a necessity. Our guide was very knowledgeable about the best local restaurants in town. One of the specialties is the Homemade Lassi which comes to you in a clay ceramic cup. Its thick and if you get banana it’s filled with chopped banana. Its so fresh tasting and delicious you feel like they just milked the cow.

Yummy Lassi

We all got into drinking Fresh Lime sodas every chance we got. The kids being tired from socializing at night with their new companion Jesse, spent much time finding spots to sit down.

Jesse with Lime Soda

Jaipur Museum

View of Jaipur from Gorgoyle Temple

View of Jaipur

AGRA

Besides the Taj Mahal there is nothing much else. Say no more say no more. Taking pictures of the Taj Mahal is a huge part of the fun. Lots more photos on Flikr.

All of us at the Taj Mahal







Long train ride from Jaipur to Jodpur

Train Station along the way


JODPUR (Caleb)
Caleb

After about 10 minutes of crazy driving the driver says we have to walk the rest of the way. So we get out of the tuk-tuk and head down a narrow path. We turn a corner and in the middle of the road there are two huge cows. The cows are basically sitting in there own shit. We have to walk in between them. There was about a metre wide path for us to take in between the two cows. I slowly step through so as not to scare them and keep on walking toward the hotel. After making tons of turns and heading down shit infested streets we reach a huge doorway with the sign ‘Yogis’ written on it. We walk inside to discover a cute little garden and a boy waiting for us to carry our bags.

Directions to Yogis

Cows in the alley outside the hotel

Inside is very typical india. There are tons of nick nacks and its very cozy. The whole hotel is like a big hole. There is a huge staircase spiralling up and you can see the sky through the middle. We go to our rooms and they are so cute and small. Jesse, Artermis and I are sleeping in one room and Mark and Lianna are in the other. The room is small but there is a nice little balcony and the bathroom is huge and the bed is comfortable.

Yogis Hotel spiralling staircase

The next day I wake up and look out onto our balcony. The road I am looking onto is about 3 metres wide and there is an elephant walking down with a rider on its back. I had to laugh. Once again that is so India.

Streets of Jodhpur

We go upstairs to the rooftop restaurant for a delicious porridge for breakfast. Today we are going to the Jodhpur Fort. We decide to take a tuk-tuk there and walk back. So we grab a tuk-tuk and for 60 cents he takes us 5k up to the Jodhpur Fort. We walk in the huge gates and go up the long sloped path. There is no one there. It’s so beautiful and massive and so insane. I go up this half a metre wide staircase with no railing about 20 feet up. The others are to scared so they go around the other way. We walk up a bit more and mark Jesse and I decide to go up onto a raised platform. Once we get up the view is spectacular. Absolutely marvellous.

Walking up the stairs

Inside the Fort taking a break

If you didn’t know Jodhpur is called the "Blue City" because everything is painted blue. So from up there on the fort we could really see the blueness. After that we go up to the main area and get an audio guide. Everything about the fort is magnificent. I love it so much. I even think it was better than the Taj Mahal. The audio guide is really good too. The best in india as everyone says.

Blue City

Lianna in the Blue City

After the fort we get a tuk-tuk and ask the guy to take us to a restaurant. The first one he takes us to there is no one there and its really expensive so we ask him to take us to another place. The second place he takes us to is still really touristy but everyone is hungry so we eat there anyways. The food is okay and the prices are way to high, but that’s what we expected.

We did a few other things in Jodhpur but the fort was the most exiting and was the thing that really stuck in my memory. Travelling with Jesse was really fun. We still get along great and we had a blast. I never imagined I would be in India with Jesse. The fort of Jodhpur to this day is top three on my list of favourite places including the Great Wall of China.
Caleb

Splurging on Lunch at the Palace of the Prince in Jodhpur where hamburgers cost $35 each. The meal was delicious and the atmosphere ... well very royal.

Palace we stopped at for a lovely lunch

Palace for Lunch


JAISELMERE
An Indian Camel safari (Artemis)
All dressed for the Safari

Camel

We are driving down a long desert road, it is like a path in a ocean. I no that when you think of a desert you think big sand dunes as long as you can see with a few cactuses. But It’s not like that. This desert in Rajasthan, India has shrubs and tumble weed littered on the ground. There are some bushes and some strange looking plants that I think are cactuses. The car pulls over and I see that there are 4 camels in the desert. We get out of the car and go over to the 2 men with the camels.

Khan the Camel Safari Guide

The men introduce themselves and help us get on the camels. The camels are all lying down and its hard to get on them because you have too swing your leg over there back like a horse but its much harder beacaus there is no sturop. When I finally get on the camels the man makes a tic tic noise and the camels two back legs stand up. When the camel does this the camels front half of its body is on the ground and its back legs are standing up. A camels legs are very long so I'm practically falling of it because I’m vertical! But slowly the camel gets up all the way.

Artemis getting on the Camel

When we start to move I realised that there are only 4 camels. One for each of us, but what about the two camel men? I ask theme why there are no camels for them and they say “oh, we walk.”

Caleb the Safari Man

We move through the desert. Looking at everything that is around us but there’s not much to look at. The two men are holding the ropes that are on are camels so we don’t have to do anything. It’s quite bumpy riding a camel and its very uncomfortable. We pull aside after what feels like 5 minutes of riding, the men say this is a village. I was slightly disappointed already because I thought we would ride a bit longer. We get of the camels and in front of us is a couple of mud houses. I think how do these people live out here?

Kid leading Caleb to the village

About 20 kids all run up to us and grab are hands and try to take are bags or hats or whatever we have with us. A small boy, maybe seven years old, takes my hand tightly and pulls me toward his house with all the other children. I see a kid has got Caleb too they take us into a small dark mud hut and put coal on are eyes like eye liner. The kids are very aggressive and I’m annoyed with the boy because he keeps trying to grab my hat and the elastics on my rist. We’re all confused. I don’t understand why the men brought us here. I’m tired of the kids and I don’t want to deal with them anymore. We get back on the camels and tell the men no more villages.

After 2 hours of riding we stop and get off the camels. There is one big tree. It looks like the only tree in the desert. We all go in the shade and the two men start to make lunch.

Tree in the Dessert

The man says we’ll have some chapatti with curry and chips with chai tea. First he makes the chai. Then he teaches me and Caleb to make chapatti. Caleb and I both make some chapatti. He cooks them on the little fire he made with camel poo and dry sticks he found along the way. We eat lunch. The two men lie down and dad goes for a walk, mom sleeps Caleb and I carve shapes out of sandstone.

Making Chappatis for Lunch

After 2 hours or so we get back on the camels. We keep walking until we reach some watering holes and another village. But this time we only come so the camels can drink water and then we’re off again. Then we reach the sand dunes. The sand dunes are only a small patch compared to the rest of the desert but when your on the dunes it feels like they go on forever.

We get to the sand dunes and we all get off the camels. The men start to make supper while Caleb and I climb up the sand dunes.

The sand is so soft. A lot of the dunes are in the shade so the sand is nice and cool. Caleb and I play in the dunes. One thing that’s really fun is when we run and jump down the hill at full speed. Since the dunes are really steep it feels like you’re flying while you’re in the air. It does’nt hurt when you land because the sand is like a soft cushion, but better.

Playing on the Dunes

Caleb diving in the Sand

Artemis jumping on the Dunes

Artemis and Caleb running up and down

The men call us and say supper is ready. We go to the fire because now its dark out. We eat supper and when we’re finished the men make are beds. We have now realised that there are big beetle’s everywhere. But the men say they’re harmless. Still, the beetles are huge. So one of the men goes around our camp with a plastic bag, pics the beetles up and puts them in the bag. While we eat supper we can hear the beetles moving inside the bag which makes a ruffling noise against the plastic. It was quite disturbing.

Lianna and Mark resting on the Dunes

We all get into our sleeping bags which are warm and cozy. We sleep under the stars. It is so beautiful looking up at the sky. It gets really cold at night but we’re all snuggled up in our blankets. I lie awake for a few minutes and listen to the silence. I have a wonderful sleep.

Waking up in the morning

The next morning the man makes chai and we all get ready to go. We have a quick breakfast and I play in the dunes one more time. We get on the camels and start heading back to Jaiselmere. On the way back the men ride on the back of mom and dad’s camels so we can run, which is bumpier than walking. It’s still fun and I feel like I’m in some kind of Indiana Jones movie.

When we get back to where we began, it is 10:00 am. The same car is there to pick us up. We get off the camels and thank the men. We get back in the car and drive down the long desert road. I loved the camel safari, it was definitely an experience to remember.

By Artemis Walden
Artemis and her Camel