Friday, February 27, 2009

Sivananda Ashram (Feb.1-5)

Sivananda Ashram
February 1-5
Lianna

Before starting on our adventure, I had the idea of attending an Ashram in India. Along our route we asked other travelers who had been to India. One woman Mark met on a diving boat in Borneo mentioned Sivananda Ashram located in Thiruvananthapuram, Kerola. I googled it on the Internet, made connection through email and booked the four of us for a week without a problem February 1st. Easy as that.

India was to be one of the first countries we actually had to start making some advance plans. Firstly the Ashram which we were told fills up quickly, then Caleb’s friend Jeese from Vancouver, Canada was going to meet us in Mombai (his mother was attending a conference in Mombai at that time so brought Jesse along to travel with us for a week) and his dates were set and we were intending meeting up with grandparents in Israel by the end of February and those date were also set.

Having our last coffee at The Indian Coffee House before heading to the Ashram

Heading to the bus

February 1 we took a local bus from Thiruvananthapuram (what a name) to Nehyyar Dam. From Nehyyar Dam bus stop the Ashram was about 1 km away by rickshaw. Shivanada Ashram was situated in a beautiful lush hillside area. The sounds of birds filled the air.

Road leading to the Ashram

Registration was lengthy, filling out numerous documents with personal information and the room assignment was somewhat disorganized as they had just completed a teachers training session where over 100 people attended. We just happened to arrive the afternoon the one month teacher training session had ended. This was a good thing as the Ashram cleared out considerably, we were told it had been quite noisy, and the new session called “Yoga Vacation” was commencing from the beginning.

Reception Area

Because of our schedule we decided that 5 days was all we could attend in order to make it up to Mumbai to meet Jesse. The Ashram schedule kept all of us busy all the time, which included naps during the day. Caleb and Mark shared a room and Artemis and I. The rooms were simple but comfortable and clean and only a short walk from every event we had to attend.

Inside the room

Throughout the 5 days, we all experienced the event differently. My impression before attending an Ashram was that it would be a place to meditate and recuperate. It was that but in a very different way than I had anticipated. Our day was full starting at 6am with meditation and chanting for 2 hours, tea following, 21/2 hours of yoga, breakfast, 1 hour of karmic yoga (communal ashram cleaning), rest, tea, 2 hours of lecture and discussion, yoga again for 2 hours, dinner, ending the day with meditation and chanting for another 2 hours and bed immediately after. For five days we rarely spoke to each other.

Everyone heading up the stairs to the eating hall

Aside
As I write this piece for the blog I feel just like a real writer sitting here in an inexpensive boudoir in the Jaselmere castle, surrounded on the bed by silk covered pillows, the fumes of local aromas rising around me and feeling the warm afternoon breeze.


Back to the Ashram.
The Ashram was invigorating and tiring. I attended the Intermediate yoga class (Mark and the kids beginners) which increased in intensity each class. One class ending the 3rd day at the Ashra left the whole class exhausted and pushed to the limit. I had done meditation already for a year prior to attending but chanting was something completely new. At first I found reciting complicated Hindi words to be confusing but I soon identified with the melodies and repetition. The whole room filled with the voices of the participants and teachers. The chanting I realized was a necessary part to raising a vibrational level. And I did feel it. After the chanting, which usually lasted for 45-60 minutes, I could sense the vibration in the air which continued with me throughout the night.

Inside the lower hall where YOGA classes took place

Inside the Main hall where meditation, chanting and YOGA classes took place


I found the whole experience to be very enlightening. I would like to attend again for at least 2 weeks. Four days really just gave me a sense of Ashram life.

There were people from all walks of life in attendance. I guess I had expected everyone to be young and hippy like or something. There were older singles, older couples, younger people, together and alone, kids (ours), fat people, skinny people. All in search of spiritual or personal development. A few young people we met left after only a few days (3 is the minimum) saying they couldn’t understand the words of the chanting and it really bothered them. I commented to one woman from NY that the words did not matter, it was the sound of the chant, the repetition that were the important part. It didn’t convince her.

Along with the yoga, which put me into great shape by the end, I also enjoyed the lectures which were led by one of the upper yogis. They spoke of Happiness and reaching ones inner being, the reasons and benefits of yoga to spiritual awareness. These topics made for much thought and discussion.

We left the Ashram after the first meal on our last day. After checking out, saying good-byes, catching the rickshaw then bus back to Thiruvananthapuram we found a hotel and crashed for the rest of the day. We were exhausted physically and mentally. Mark felt things move around inside, I was definitely enlightened, Artemis enjoyed it but was tired of the vegetarian food and Caleb expressed that he wanted to stay longer. At one lecture about the reason and benefit for each yoga pose Caleb volunteered to be the demonstrator. The is in front of 100 people. Artemis soon assisted him when the teacher required a bridge to be demonstrated. The teacher, Roda (79 y.o. who looked 60) a lovely African American woman from Sivananada in Chicago, was especially impressed by Caleb and Artemis praising them highly for their participation and courage.

Forget the thousands of dollars any of you spend or maybe intending to spend on pyscologists or therapists. Go to an Ashram for 2 weeks, or more if necessary. You will learn and discover about yourself far more therapeutically.

I am happy to say that I am hooked on Sun Salutations which I try and do as often as possible. As a kid I remember my dad doing them every morning, what took me so long.

Lianna

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Tamil Nadu, India (Jan 23 - Feb 1)



Journey through Tamil Nadu to Karola India (Jan 23 – Feb.1)
Lianna

Our entry into India was through Chennai, the fourth largest city of India. We were all very excited to get to India having talked about it for months, Mark and I had both been to India many years before, Mark 25 years ago when he travelled the world on his own and me 16 years ago when my sister was married in Mumbai.

Chennai is located on the mid south-east side of India, on the coast. We flew into Chennai because it was the best ticket price from Kuala Lumpur as well as being the closest to our destination for Feb. 1. From the 1st we were booked in an Ashram in Southern India so we decided to see a bit of India first, making our way down to the Ashram.

We were delighted to see Ambassador taxis all lined up waiting outside the airport. Accosted at the exit by many taxi drivers, we made our way to one of these ole fashion vehicles and headed into Chennai.

Ambassador Taxis Lined-up

Side streets of Chennai

Our process of locating a good hotel after all these months had been perfected. We would arrive in a city with the name of a possible hotel we could stay. The tuk tuk or taxi driver would take us directly there. Two of us would get out and check the rate and look at the rooms while the other two watched the luggage – usually Mark and I checking the room and the kids watching the luggage. If it met our needs as such; good price, clean bathroom, generally clean room, comfortable bed, we would take it. If it did not meet these needs then the two people would come out and say “No, lets try another.” Then we would ask the driver to take us to another hotel or possibly there would be one close by we would visit. Many times in our early days of travelling we would spend hours trying to find the right place. We are now been able to get a good place after only a few tries. A recommendation from other travellers has also been a key source of information for good hotels.

Funky Hotel

In Chennai we settled on a funky art deco-like hotel. After settling, the next most important issue was food followed by the need to find a bookstore to purchase a guidebook of India. Mark hailed down a tuk-tuk which then whisked us off to the nearest Chennai mall boasting a large bookstore and some great food. It had both although as usual not anything like our idea of a mall. The bookstore was a winner with a fabulous collection of English books. We spent a long time looking through titles and then finally leaving with a stack of novels and a guide book. Our tuk-tuk driver had been waiting for us to return as is a usual set-up (driver takes you to the location, waits for you and then returns you ) but he was a little upset (meaning he wanted more money) as we had taken longer than expected.

Stopping for Chai along the way

From Chennai we made our way across the state of Tamil Nadu, hitting coastal cities and inland temple cities. Sometimes we travelled by bus, a very cheap and easy way to travel. You just show up at the bus station, find the appropriate bus (and there are always tons of peopl to help you) and then hop on for a minimal cost. Buses take longer than private taxis and that is why we hired a taxi a few times but on a bus you see local life coming and going and you sometimes meet people, locals and occasionally other foreigners.

Super Deluxe Bus

Within 7 days we made our way through the following cities:
Chennai
Mamallapuram (by bus)
Kanchipuram and Pondicherry (by private car)
Trichy (by bus)
Madurai (by bus)
Thiruvananthapuram (by private car)
Neyyar Dam (by bus)

Our route took us down the coast from Mamallapuram to Pondicherry. The beaches are wide and long and the ocean powerful. All along this coast is where the Tsunami hit and although there was little evidence of destruction as I walked along the shore looking out towards the vast endless ocean I could not help thinking about the possibility of the tide receding uncharacteristically and exploding back as a wall of water. We didn’t swim at all. The beaches were covered in shit of all kinds (dog, cow, human) and the water soaking up every bit of it but if you could and we did over look all that, the view was incredible: fisherman tending to their boats, cows milling around, buskers selling goods, tourists sun tanning, dogs frolicking freely and even some daring people swimming.

Rock Temple at Mamalapuram

I really didn’t expect to be at a beach in India but here we were. Along with this Mamallapuram boasts many fascinating rock temples. We hired bikes that seemed to be barely held together and road around the town from temple to temple, weaving through chaotic local traffic and soaking up the intense mid-day heat. Signs indicating Yoga classes were splashed around the touristy part of Mamallapuram so the next early morning I was up, whilst the rest slept, to attend a yoga class. There were only two students, myself and a young Belgian girl, but that didn’t stop our experienced Indian instructor from continuing the class. As the wind blew through the open air room which overlooked the water and as the sun came slowly peeking over the horizon I felt a connection with this foreign land.

In Pondicherry we found an hotel on the waterfront for $20 a night. The room
was simple and clean and undoubtedly the largest room we had found to date. Included in the huge space, Caleb could run around doing flips, there was a balcony overlooking the ocean on one side and the street festival and beach on the other. We were all in heaven.

View from the Balcony

We a stayed for two nights, soaking in the ocean breeze coming though our windows. The city, itself influenced by French colonists, had a very European flavour; although, locating reasonably priced quality restaurants near our hotel was not a simple chore.

Coffee Bar in Pondi

In Trichy after visiting the Rock Ford Temple in the middle of the city, we ventured deeper into the town where we then located a bustling shopping area full of material, tailors and Indian clothing shops. This was our first exposure to sari shopping. We happened upon a sari shop which was reputed to be (by the slogan on their shopping bag) the largest in India. Every color, texture or style was being displayed in a massive and busy multi-level building. Overwhelmed by the choices, we didn’t buy anything. The experience alone was plenty as we were constantly shuffled from one counter to another by helpful but aggressive salesmen. And all the sales people were men which we found a bit odd considering they were selling saris to women.

Gopurum in Trichy

Kanchipuram was a city of temples. In one holy Hindu temple of 100 columns, a chatty and eccentric priest led us on one of the most entertaining tours. His excellent accented English and charming and witty expressions had us laughing for hours after the tour.

Priest took the picture

Getting ready to enter temple in Madurai, dotis on - shoes off.

In Madurai its was unfortunate that the “Sri Manashi Temple”, where people make pilgramages from all over India, was under renovation. The beautiful and famous Madurai gopurams, (huge towering gateways into temple areas which can sore 50 or 60 metres and are covered in colourfully painted Hindu deities) were completely covered for re-painting. There are 12 fabulous gopurams surrounding the temple and all of them have been covered for the past 3 years! You think they would do one at a time. Besides that the temple was incredible.

Close-up of Gopuram color

There was a huge maze of stone walkways throughout where people were praying. Because it was a Genesh temple (the elephant god) there was an elephant standing by to bless people: you walk up to the elephant, put a coin in the end of its trunk (drop it right into its trunk) then the elephant touches his truck to your head, blessing you. The elephant then gives the coin to its trainer, who drops it in a bucket.

Artemis getting a blessing

There was a North, South, East and West exit and we invariably got lost in the maze finally having to exit the temple and walk around barefooted through the dirty streets of Madurai to where we had left our shoes (one must take off shoes to enter a temple).

.Tailors near the Temple area

The final drive to Thiruvananthapuram was the longest travel between cities – 7 hours – but it was our final destination before attending the Ashram in Nehru Dam. We found a hotel and tried to try to rest up for the Ashram entry the next day.

Love India so far
Lianna

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Borneo to Kuala Lumpur (Jan 3-Jan 23)


Borneo Impressions
Mark

We're watching the Black Dhalia on TV and I'm feeling a bit peckish.
It's Kota Kinabalu, which means you have a choice between the Indians, the Muslims, and the Chinese. Most are closed at this hour, but I know the China man will be open. I love that place: raw, dirty walls, plastic chairs, staff that shuffles around in T-shirts, plastic shoes and sweat pants. The food is simple, tasty, inexpensive and hits the spot. They also sell beer. Only the Chinese sell beer and only the Chinese serve pork. We make a joke about the many restaurants that have "serve no pork" on their menus, as well as signs on their doorways and walls. It's a clash of cultures, but according toe "Man-boy", a local guy we met our first night here in Borneo, people get along and accept each other.

We met Man-boy (a nickname given to him by the Brits, who couldn't make out his real name of Mansaboy) at an Indian resto our first evening in KK. Downtown KK is set up with streets running one way, and walking promenades between them. Restaurants and shops spill out onto these promenades. On this night the Indian restaurant was full, as they had set up a TV for viewing whilst eating on the promenade. A silver buffet area had a variety of curries and rice, and we were implored to go and help ourselves by the owner. We also ordered a heap of roti to go with it. Caleb had returned with nothing but curry sauce - no meat or veggies, just a plate of four different sauces. Man-boy, who was at the table next to ours, saw this and commented: "You don't have any meat! Go get some meat!" I agreed completely, and cajoled him as well. Of course everyone was alternating between watching us and watching the movie on TV. Man-boy continued to make comments on what we were eating. He was friendly, and his comments were humourous. Man-boy was an older man, toothless, dressed in local garb and wearing a Muslim cap. He chain-smoked as he talked to us, and I eventually realized that his English was excellent, and went far beyond the usual "where are you from, how long will you be here." It turned out he had a received a PhD. from a UK university, had traveled the world, had 13 kids and spent years in Africa counseling families on health issues.

According to Man-boy, and our observations, no one seems to judge another: Muslim women walk around with their heads covered, and they are friends with Chinese women who expose their shoulders and wear short-shorts. Everyone seems to accept one another, which Man-boy agrees with.

In my late-night (it's 10:30) Chinese resto I order a Carlsburg and a Singapore noodles - the fat, flat ones - and sit back and watch the goings-on. The waitress remembers me and asks about my wife. She, like most people I encounter, comment on how beautiful she is. I tell her she's back at the hotel with my kids. She actually asks about my "friends", as Asians in general seem to find it hard to judge the relationship between L and C and A and I. One street vendor in Bangkok refused to believe that C & A were our kids. She stood there with arms full of Chan village items for sale, imploring Artemis to tell her the truth. She'd look from one to the other of us and say, "No. It's not possible." Of course it didn't help that I couldn't stop laughing (no, not because of the Thai weed) every time she asked. It was just so funny that she absolutely could not fathom or comprehend or see us as a family. She just kept saying, with complete incredulity, "You're joking right?" And I'd break out laughing. She thought L and I were too young, and C & A were too old to be parents/children. Most people thought C & A were around 18 or 20, and L & I in mid-twenties. The waitress at the Chinese resto also referred to them as my "friends", as in "Where are your friends?" I tell her they are my kids, and they are back at the hotel. She nods and shuffles off to tend to another client.

The resto is so basic: brown plastic chairs; dirty walls which need painting; a beer fridge which acts as a separator between us and the cooks. There is a woman (with her head covered) selling something in a corner. She'd been there for hours, and just sat there looking around. I order another Singapore noodles to take away, and the girl sends in my order with alacrity, and enquires if I want another beer or not, which I decline.

The woman who runs the place and handles the money is rough looking: pock-marked pudgy face; polyester clothing; short hair with a dyed perm. She is smiling, obviously recognizes me, and does some quick addition on a piece of ratty scrap paper to give me the total, which is about 6 bucks CDN.
As I'm walking home I quickly wonder about chopsticks to eat the noodles with, and take a quick peak into the bag: they've thought of it. There's a bag of chili sauce, chopsticks and a napkin included.

Kota Kinabalu is a small town. Rough around the edges, but appealing in a way as well. Right outside our hotel is THE place for Tom Yam soup in all of Borneo, if not all of Malaysia. From 7 in the morning until closing, at around 4, bowls of Tom Yam come streaming out of the place. All they serve is Tom Yam, chicken rice, fried noodles and Laksa - all of which are amazing. There are ALWAYS people at this place, including the outdoor part, which is located just outside our hotel. We divide our time between this resto, the hotel room, and some quick jonts to the local mall or the harbour. We are well situated, and can walk to any of these places in 3 minutes or so, which is a good thing as I have buggered my foot again - smashing my toe at the Monosopiad village whilst trying out their stilts.

Monosopiad is the name of the most famed head-hunters in this area: he had gotten 42 heads - more than any other hunter, and has been revered ever since. Head-hunting ended around 100 years ago (only!). Head-hunters would cut off the heads of their enemies and bring them back to the village as trophies. In order to get married a young man would have to show a head to his proposed bride. Monosopiad's name lives on in a mock-village set-up outside of KK, something like Burnaby village. The whole thing is quite well done, as you get to try out things like their food (which was delicious), try a slingshot and poison dart blower, and even their local tobacco. Life is so different when you leave North America. Here, Artemis is offered some local rice wine to taste, with the woman telling us not to worry, as it`s not very strong, only about 12% alcohol. In the mock traditional house, we are all invited to try their local tobacco - even Artemis! And we didn`t have to sing a single waver. When I smashed my toe trying their local stilts, the guide giggled and said I better get some ice on it. It`s quite liberating not living or visiting a non-litiginous society. You can walk where you want, try what you want, do whatever you want, as no one is worried about being sued! You can see how our culture of fear is built up, beginning with a fear of being sued, which leads to safety rails, disclaimers, and a general air of extreme caution, so when you are seated in a Disneyland ride, the host must spend 2 or 3 minutes explaining the need to wear a seat belt and how dangerous it is to lean out of the tea cups as they slowly spin around. Caleb`s main comment during our travels is "They`d never let you do this in Vancouver!"

Of course I wish I could sue the bastards as I smashed my toe pretty badly!
I tried to walk on the stilts a few times, with little success, so our guide, a pretty local girl with excellent English and rotted front teeth suggested I do it barefoot. I take off my protective Keens, and give it a shot: I stumble, smash my foot, and have been hobbling ever since. Within 10 minutes the nail on the second toe of my right foot is blue, and by evening it's black, including the back of the toe. Lianna has gotten some ice for me, and I freeze it, but to no avail, as the toe has swelled to the point where I cannot walk on it - again! This is the third time I`ve disabled myself. Why you ask? I ask the same thing. Slow down Markie. Slow down man.

The first time this happened was in Kyoto Japan, where, after dipping my feet in the river (kids were playing and walking about in the river, including my kids) I was bitten by... something, as my foot proceeded to swell for next three days, until it was twice the size and I was unable to walk. OK, fine. A message to myself to slow down. It was the beginning of the trip. I was anxious. I needed to relax. After that happened I remembered my first trip to Europe when I was 20 and I split my toe open on a bed frame whilst jumping on the bed with some drunken nurses one night (a mixed blessing, as they were the ones creating the frivolity, but were also able to bandage my toe). This disabled me for at least a week or more. So now, after Kyoto, some months later, I get another bite, ON THE OTHER FOOT, IN THE EXACT SAME SPOT!!!! It begins to swell, but I really concentrate on slowing down and not making this as serious as the first episode in Kyoto, as I have a very difficult to find and expensive permit to dive at Sipodan (a dive site Jacques Cousteau had proclaimed was amongst the best on earth), and was not about to lose this for a f*&%^ing swollen foot! Thankfully it went away in 3 days, which I considered a personal victory.

"I've improved" I thought to myself. Kyoto swelling, 10 days; Sipodan swelling: 3. Yeah! Until this....
Caleb did not come to Monosopiad village as he had been overcome with a fit of vomiting and diarrhea. That afternoon we all laze about the hotel room - we have a single room with a king-sized bed and two singles. I read some Abraham on the topic of sickness and resistance. It all fits and we all decide to let go. We are to leave to Kuala Lumpur the next morning, and Artemis and I get up with stomach cramps. She vomits - 3 times: once at the hotel, once outside the airport in a plastic bag we brought just for such an occurrence, and once inside the airport toilet, and I sit on the plane hoping I will not have to as my stomach roils with cramps and my toe aches. Resistance? What resistance?!

We arrive in KL without further incident - I do not vomit, and we come back to the same comfortable hotel we were in before Borneo, where we left our bags. Lianna and Caleb go to get our Indian visas at the visa centre. Opening hours are from 9 - 5 and it's 3 p.m. they walk in and the guard asks them what they want. She explains it to him and he directs her to the counter, where 4 people sit with "closed" signs in front of their stations. The guy at the counter tells her they close at 2:30. She re-reads the instructions, which state that you are to pick up your visas between 4 - 5 the next day. Welcome to India!

Mark

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Borneo Part TWO (Jan 4)

Hike around Mount Kinabalu in Borneo
Artemis Walden


We drive up to a small booth with a man in it. Obviously there is a entry fee to get into the park. Let me explain, today we’re going to hike around a mountain called mount Kinabalu. We’re on a road trip while we wait for are Indian visa in Kuala Lumpur (KL). So we took a plane to kota kinabalu, Borneo, rented a car and we’re of! We pay the entrance fee , skip the information booth and start to drive up a road that looks pretty steep. After what seems like hours of driving higher and higher we finally see some cars parked on the side of the road. Across the street from the parked cars there is a small rickety wooden staircase and a worn out sign that says “waterfall viewpoint”. I open the car door and take a deep breath. The air is crisp but not to cold, there’s a glint of sun shining through the treetops and a gentle breeze that ruffles the lush plants and tree leaves around us. I stretch my limbs and we all set of up the trail.

The first thing my dad see’s on only the third step is a weird larvae. The larvae is black with a vibrant orange edging its about 4 inches long and looks kind of like a centipede.
I’m thinking “great if we see this in the first 3 seconds of are hike what will we see in 10 minutes!” Fortunately the beautiful surroundings take over my fear. The hike was great! We didn’t see any other huge bugs and the look out points were fantastic! The whole hike was a steep trail up. Every once and a while there would be rickety staircase that was as steep and old as a rotting latter. After that hike we got in the car and drove back down the hill.

We ended up back at the entrance, got a map and after some debating decided to follow a trail that looked nice on the map. It’s unbelievably peaceful in the forest (jungle). On the trail I can here a gentle hum from the bugs that’s surprisingly loud, and every few minutes a bird will coo. The ground is moist and slightly muddy with rocks, leaves and moth scattered all over. About twenty minutes through the hike we reach a river. We all find a rock on the water and sit very still. No one talked or made any sounds. We just sat and listened to the river and all the little waterfalls around us. A few butterflies flew by, it was a magical moment. We sat in silence for about 10 minutes then continued on are hike.

When we were walking back to are car we saw the most beautiful butterfly. It was yellow with intricate brown patterns on it’s wings.

The jungle was so filed with life you no is there but most of it you can’t even see. As we drove out of the park I saw a sign that said “take only pictures and leave only footprints”.

By Artemis Walden

Borneo Part ONE - (Jan3-Jan19)


Borneo Road Trip
Lianna

Along our travels we talk to and meet many other travellers and tourists and locals. We hear about their journeys and experiences and we question them for information about where we are or other places we could go. I met a Chinese Malay woman on the plane on the way from Phenom Phen to Kuala Lumpur, Shirley. Her children, around the same age as ours, also did scuba diving. One place she mentioned having visited and thoroughly enjoyed was Borneo.

Along the way there were other mentions of Borneo. A woman we met in Trawanagan, Indonesia who was from Calgary, mentioned she was heading for Kota Kinabalu, Borneo. She rattled off all sorts of amazing things she was planning to do in Borneo. She left a few days before us and at that point jokingly we said “See you in Borneo”. Little did we know.

A few days later we landed in Kota Kinabalu, Borneo. Love that name. Kota Kinabalu, Kina kina balu, yeah yeah. We make up rythms or songs about many of the places we visit. How can you not with the fantastic name of KOTA KINABALU.

We were expecting R-E-M-O-T-E, remnants of head hunters (which they are famous for), intense jungle, wild animals, massive poisonous insects. There was evidence of all this eventually but Koto Kinabalu is surprisingly a modern city. Our first meal consisted of a bowl of Tom Yam Soup and Kafka with noodles. Both dishes were absolutely delicious. We ended up going to this restaurant many times and eventually met the daughter of the owners who we found out were professional ballroom dancers at night (we thought something was different about how they dressed and looked, the mother with her died blond hair, high heels and confident presence) and operaters of this famous Chinese restaurant (which only served a few specialty dishes) during the day. The place opened at 7:00am and closed around 4:30. It was always packed.
Enjoying Tom Yam Soup

To see Borneo at our own leisure, we rented a small car and spent the next few weeks driving around the northern part of Borneo, Sabah.

A stop along the way, Mark takes a shower in the waterfall

An incredible Butterfly and Insect observatory was our first stop out of town. Hesitant to enter because of the general “Yuk its not the wild, its an observatory…”. But we were all more than surprised by the information it offered and with the help from an amazing guide, we had our first introduction to the insects and plants of Borneo. This helped immensesly with the rest of the trip as we were able to identify and search out what we had learned.Caterpillar cocoon

Carniverous plants

Orang Utan Rehabilitaion Centre


These primates only exist in 2 areas on the face of this earth, Borneo and Sumatra. They are amazing creatures, so similar to us one had to wonder how they could have possibly been destroyed so rampantly. We attended a feeding of the Orang Utans. This occurs twice a day. Food is placed on a platform built around a tree in the jungle. Orang Utans are then let free from the rehabilitation centre through a series of ropes in the trees.



Not more than 25 m away is a platform that tourists can view these amazing animals. One female had come down to the walkway for guests. She sat quietly observing the people as they observed her. We were able to get less than ¼ of a meter away.

Jungle Cruise on the Kitabantangan River
After a long drive through endless km of Palm Oil groves (much of the land on Sabah has been clearcut for the Palm Oil industry) we finally arrived at an area that was left untouched. The Kitabantangan River flowed through a parcel of pristine jungle.. One can stay along the river in either very high end jungle resort accommodation or like us find a nice little local B&B. The attraction is taking a small speed boat, along the river to view wildlife.

We enjoyed the first excursiouns so much that we indulged 4 times, one time was a night cruise. It was FABULOUS!

Next stop Sempurna – diving excursion to Semolock – well known for sharks.
Very Muslim area

Only Caleb and Mark went as Artemis is not yet 12 and therefore not eligible to swim below 12m where the dive was to take place.

I snorkelled which was very interesting. The waters were really rough one day as I jumped into the water. I wore a life jacket that day, mainly to keep warm, but as I looked around at the 2m swells, the boat far in the distance, me swimming in this rough water just to see fish, I was amazed at myself.

We spent a few nights on an island called Mabul. The guest house was on stilts in the water as is most of the village.
Little shack of a place in Mabul

This place really pushed the boundaries for me. The rooms were just thrown together wood shacks, the water in the bathroom stayed on the floor as there was no proper drainage and the worse of it was that all the sewage and everything else from the village went straight into the ocean. It was disgusting to say the least.
Phillipino gypsies living on the water just outside the motel

Artemis and Caleb found some kitty friends

We made it through 2 nights and I was very happy to leave. We would have moved residences but there wasn’t anything else. The choices being the bungalow we were in or very high end resort which cost a few hundred dollars per person.

Stayed one last night on the mainland and then headed back for a full days trip to Kota Kinabalu.

Hotel on stilts in Semporna

Upon arriving in Kota Kinabalu our health and energy level was low, Caleb and Artemis the worse, Mark smashed his foot and I, as well as everyone, had the revenge. Must have been Mabul, or maybe we were nervous about going to India next, or maybe we were just tired out from all the travelling and moving from day to day. Anyway we crashed in Kota Kinabalu for 3 days, not leaving the hotel much except to eat, oh one excursion to see an exhibit about the “Head Hunters” – a definite high light of the trip and luckily our hotel was just across the street from the best Tom Yam Soup in Borneo.
We all danced with the troupe

Trying our luck at shooting a spear


Lianna